The Biz : Horyn Retires & Schiaparelli Sizzles

January 31st, 2014 |Posted by Janelle

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Cathy Horyn with Calvin Klein’s Tom Murry and Francisco Costa|Image Credit – By: Andrew H. Walker for Getty Images Entertainment

Legendary New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn retires after 15 years at the paper. Throughout her storied career the veteran reporter never shied away from voicing her views, even when they strayed from popular opinion. Who could forget Horyn’s memorable clash with designer Hedi Slimane, or her enthusiastic support for Raf Simons. Given her status as one of the industry’s most revered voices, it will be interesting to see who at the Times will fill her shoes. / WWD

Barneys‘ latest campaign features a diverse cast of transgender models who were not only shot by Bruce Weber, but also share their stories with Vanity Fair’s Patricia Bosworth for ads that tackle the issue of equality. / NYT

As the debate over the ethics of fast fashion comes to the forefront, H&M (arguably the world’s biggest fast fashion retailer) chimes in - head of sustainability, Helena Helmersson tells Reuters there is no direct conflict between sustainability and fashion. “We want to make sustainable fashion more democratic, we don’t aim for sustainability to be a luxury thing.” / Reuters

Take a look at how female fashionistas are reshaping the luxury market in China with their savvy knowledge of the best brands and billion dollar purchasing power. / Bloomberg 

Celebrity and fashion have never been more intertwined, but for emerging designers getting their wares on the back of a major star can provide an an unparalleled level of exposure. Business of Fashion investigates the connection between Hollywood and the next wave of haute designers.  / BOF

There were a whole lot of couture shows but the most talked about (and possibly best loved) of the bunch this season was Schiaparelli. Designer Marco Zanini’s elegant collection was the toast of the town and Suzy Menkes explains why. In an exciting twist, Christie’s auction of pieces from the queen of shocking’s personal collection  provides an appealing trip through fashion’s history. The revival of the house and renewed interest in the brand’s legacy led to record high auction bids / NYT & Art News

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Liisa Winkler and Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin on the runway for Schiaparelli | Image Credit -Pascal Le Segretain for Getty Images Entertainment

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EXCLUSIVE: Longchamp Leaps

December 13th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Take a first look at the S/S 13 campaign from Longchamp, in all its glory. Shot in JFK airport’s historic, Eero Saarinen designed TWA terminal, the campaign is all about movement; who better to embody that idea, than the jet setting, high flying and haute posing, Coco Rocha! In her third season working with the luxe brand, Coco delivers her signature acrobatic poses all while playing the part of ultra-chic traveler, a role we’re sure she’s familiar with. Fellow catwalker Liisa Winkler joins her for the journey, since every trip is better with a fashionable friend and the duo busts a move even as they head through airport security. Fun fact: choreographer Salim Gauwloos, the man behind Madonna‘s Blonde Ambition tour collaborated on the imagery. Take a first look at the new ads and the behind the scenes imagery below.


BEHIND THE SCENES

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State of Grace

November 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Grace Coddington by Sebastian Kim

On the eve of the publication of Grace Coddington‘s memoirs the famously flame haired fashion editor is everywhere. Pick up a copy of i-D Magazine‘s latest issue and you’ll see her on the cover, head to any news website worth its salt and you’ll find an excerpt from the tasteful tell-all (or just check it out on Vogue.com) detailing the backstory of some epic editorial moment straight from Vogue’s pages.  Indeed it seems we’re living in a state of Grace, so to speak, so what better time to look back on the trademarks of her work – those quintessential details that set her styling apart from everyone else. It would be impossible to go through twenty years of Grace and pick a few editorials that sum up the depth and diversity that make her work great, instead we look to four Coddington calling cards that are certain to appear in every one of her stories; glamour, history, fantasy and humour.


GLAMOUR

It goes without saying that Vogue is a repository for high-glamour imagery, but Grace has always pushed the borders of what that means. It isn’t enough to showcase off the runway looks or exquisite couture, the image has to convey something powerful and iconic.

‘The Heat of the Moment’ – Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Model Naomi Campbell American Vogue, March 1998

‘High Art’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue November 2004

‘Daydreams’ Photographer Steven Klein, Models Daria Werbowy and Natalia Vodianova American Vogue September 2004

‘Talk to Her’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Models - Joan SmallsCoco RochaKaren ElsonGuinevere Van SeenusCaroline TrentiniLiya KebedeAbbey Lee KershawDaphne Groeneveld, American Vogue 2012


HISTORY

Recreating the look and feel of historical periods with contemporary design has become something of a Vogue standard and when Grace takes on history the end result is always memorable. From haute baroque, to 50s style Brando-chic and 70s style glam rock, her interpretations of the past have always been fresh and dynamic.

‘French Twists’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Models – Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, Gisele Bundchen, Daria Werbowy, Karen Elson, American Vogue May 2004

‘A Feast for the Eyes’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Models – Kylie Bax, Amy Wesson, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Behennah, Guinevere Van Seenus, Trish Goff, Chandra North,  American Vogue December 1996

‘Custom of the Country’ photographer Annie Leibovitz, Model Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue August 2012

‘Wild At Heart’ Photographer - Peter Lindbergh, Models – Helena ChristensenCindy Crawford,  Linda EvangelistaClaudia SchifferNaomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Tatjana Patitz, and Stephanie Seymour, American Vogue 1991

Rock the House, photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue, November 2001


FANTASY

No one creates a fantastical scenario via clothes quite like Grace does. Her instantly recognizable fairy tale collaboration with Annie Leibovitz has raised the bar for just about everyone by taking the familiar childhood tales and re-imagining them as fanciful fashion moments. Who says Alice can’t fall down the rabbit hole while wearing head to toe Tom Ford? Even with the elaborate sets, mythical allusions and high concept themes, Grace makes you notice the clothes first and foremost.

‘Joy to the World’ Photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue December 2002

‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ Photographer – Steven Klein, Models – Maggie Rizer, Trish Goff, Oluchi Onweagba, Liisa Winkler, Anouck Lepere, Karolina Kurkova, American Vogue June 2001

‘Garden of Delights’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Model - Caroline Trentini, American Vogue December 2006

‘Alice in Wonderland’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova , American Vogue December 2003

‘Wizard of Oz’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Keira Knightley, American Vogue December 2005

‘Romeo and Juliet’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Coco Rocha, American Vogue December 2008


HUMOUR

A concept that is regrettably missing in most fashion editorials yet always has a place in Grace’s work. Whether it is Stella Tennant leading a troop of boyscouts or Karen Elson starring as Grace herself, there is always that added touch of whimsy that makes her work a delight.

‘A Shot of Scotch’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Linda Evangelista, American Vogue September 1991

‘Graceful Elegance’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Model - Karen Elson, American Vogue August 2008

‘O’ Pioneers!’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Stella Tennant, American Vogue June 2001

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