The Halloween Edit

October 31st, 2014 |Posted by Janelle

Fashion has always held Halloween in a special esteem. Of all the holidays it allows for the most outlandish changes and transformations which means it is right up fashion’s alley. As such there are countless editorials that serve to inspire a bit of seasonal cheer, or at least serve as appropriate fodder for Halloween costumes. Take a look back at 10 editorials that make us think of all-Hallows eve and share your favorite spooky or kooky fashion story in the comments.

01. Ph. Tim Walker
Publication: Harper’s Bazaar
Who better to look to on Halloween than legendary filmmaker (and master of the spooky story) Tim Burton? Bazaar’s fashion trip through Burton’s filmography is a creepy classic.

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02. Ph. Jean-Francois Campos
Publication: Flair
Campos’ Nosferatu-esque zombies might not be as scary as the characters on The Walking Dead but it made for a great spooky editorial.

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03. Ph. Steven Klein (Art Partner)
Publication: Candy Magazine
There are quite a few Steven Klein stories that could be considered Halloween ready, but his fantastical male pregnancy saga for Candy is probably the most outlandish.

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04. Ph. Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello
Publication: Numéro
Sofia & Mauro took inspiration from Divine for this out there story that captures all the kitschy goodness of John Waters’ over the top film.

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05. Ph. Steven Meisel
Publication: American Vogue
The way in which each and every model on this story took on a classic rock persona was downright inspirational – Omhyra as Prince, Karolina Kurkova as Marilyn Manson, Sophie Dahl as Debbie Harry – the work by Pat McGrathGrace Coddington and Orlando Pita on this story was nothing short of iconic.

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06. Ph. Peter Lindbergh
Publication: Vogue Paris
Some of fashion’s own characters make for incredible costumes, case in point Sasha P morphing into John Galliano for Vogue Paris.

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07. Ph. Thomas Lagrange (Total Management)
Publication: Vogue Japan
You can’t have a Halloween roundup without a little vampirism and LaGrange’s slick beauty story puts a chic twist on bloodsucking.

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08. Ph. Steven Meisel
Publication: Vogue Italia
The inspiration for Meisel’s ‘The Discipline of Fashion’ was Ethel Granger, a woman who tightlaced for years in order to achieve a 13 inch waist! You don’t need to go that far to get into the story or the incredible, unnerving visuals.

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09. Ph. Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin
Publication: V Magazine
A before and after of epic proportions where Eniko, Anja and Raquel are transformed via the use of Paddy Hartley’s transparent face masks. The clear plastic and cutouts distort the wearers face by changing its proportions in ways that range from beautiful to grotesque.

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10. Ph. Craig McDean
Publication: American Vogue
Before everyone was running out to grab their Avengers costume, Coco Rocha was playing fashion superhero in the pages of Vogue with this memorable McDean story.

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Crown of Fire

July 24th, 2014 |Posted by Janelle

Modeling holds a special place for redheads – some of fashion’s finest names have fiery locks naturally and even more have experimented with the color on a temporary basis. American Vogue pays tribute to the loveliest and most notable redheads in a special portfolio by Annie Leibovitz that features appealing gingers from the worlds of film, sport and of course modeling. With fashion’s most famous ginger Grace Coddington serving as stylist and Didier Malige (Art Partner) and Aaron de Mey (Art Partner) handling hair and makeup respectively, the editorial is a beautiful showcase for the respective stars and their crowning glories. Naturally, Karen Elson makes the list, but so does fresh face Madison Stubbington.

See Vogue’s full list of essential redheads in the August issue featuring Blake Lively and at Vogue.com

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Mod Squad

June 26th, 2014 |Posted by Janelle

The resurgence of mod was one of fall’s most impactful runway trends and American Vogue captures the look with a playful Mario Testino (Art Partner) editorial starring Cara Delevingne. London girl Cara is the perfect person to pull off this quintessentially British look and she’s joined by lead singer of The Heartbreaks Matthew Whitehouse and Josh Nickerson (Anti-Agency), both of whom look authentically retro. Grace Coddington handles styling and as always provides an eye-catching mix of designer wares. Pieces from Tom Ford, Burberry and Saint Laurent Paris are put to good use and Didier Malige (Art Partner) and Linda Cantello‘s hair & makeup provide the final touch of swinging sixties beauty.

View the full story – complete with Cara interview on Vogue.com

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For even more from the July issue head over to Vogue.com

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Double Debut

January 6th, 2014 |Posted by Janelle

One of the last season’s most compelling new beauties was the lovely Imaan Hammam, a Givenchy exclusive who opened Tisci’s dazzling S/S show and captured our attention with her graceful presence and unique look. In the months since Imaan has been showing up in all the right places, particularly in the pages of American Vogue where she headlines not one but two stories in the January issue. Posing alongside Liya Kebede in Mikael Jansson‘s tropical escape editorial and showing a completely different side in Craig McDean‘s chic collections story.

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Ph. Mikael Jansson | Fashion Editor – Camilla Nickerson (Art Partner) | See the full story in the database

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Ph. Craig McDean | Fashion Editor – Grace Coddington

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For more from the latest issue of Vogue, be sure to visit Vogue.com

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Editorial Inspiration : Rear Window

March 20th, 2013 |Posted by Janelle

Hollywood costumer Edith Head’s legendary collaboration with filmmaker, Alfred Hitchcock is one of the most enduring fashion reference points. Head’s costumes with their luxurious detailing and elegant shapes were the ideal compliment to Hitchcock’s sophisticated heroines and together they shaped the iconic “Hitchcock Blonde” look. The duo worked together on nearly a dozen now classic films – Vertigo, Marnie, Notorious, To Catch a Thief, just to name a few and the legacy of those pictures has influenced everyone from Alexander McQueen to Bill Gayten.

The latest industry power player to find inspiration Head / Hitchcock is none other than Vogue Creative Director, Grace Coddington, who creates an impressive take on Rear Window’s 50s style fashions using the season’s key pieces, with the regal Carolyn Murphy filling the shoes of Grace Kelly and actor Tobey Maguire in the Jimmy Stewart role. The story shot by Peter Lindbergh recreates the atmosphere of L.B. Jeffries’ apartment down to the last detail, but gives things a Vogue twist. Ladylike pieces from Marc Jacobs, Oscar De La Renta and Miu Miu are mixed perfectly for a wardrobe that is steeped in vintage glamour, yet keeps its modernity. Carolyn certainly captures the All-American elegance of Grace and even though Tobey Maguire isn’t our first choice for a Jimmy Stewart substitute, this story still has all the charm & intrigue of a Hitchcock flick. 

VIEW THE FULL STORY ON VOGUE.COM

TAKE A LOOK BEHIND THE SCENES AT GRACE CODDINGTON’S PHOTO DIARY 

THE INSPIRATION: Rear Window

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THE EDITORIAL: Window Dressing

Photographer: Peter Lindbergh
Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington
Models: Carolyn Murphy & Tobey Maguire
Hair, Didier Malige
Makeup, Stéphane Marais.
Set design, Viki Rutsch for Exposure NY
Produced by Ricardo D. Martins for North Six.

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All Images Courtesy of Vogue  - for more on the April issue check out Vogue.com

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Past Meets Present: The Mod Moment

January 23rd, 2013 |Posted by Janelle

By its very nature, fashion is in a constant state of change, but the industry has a way of rehashing the past every few seasons with collections that draw inspiration from key moments in fashion’s history.  Nostalgia was the predominant fashion mode of the aughts, and it saw  designers revisiting everything from 1920s flapper fixtures, to ’80s powerdressing and (gasp) ’90s grunge redux. We may have just entered into 2013, but when it comes to manufacturing clothing that looks awfully similar to styles that could have been worn generations earlier, designers show no signs of stopping.

Case in point, S/S 13’s mod moment, which saw a wealth of graphic prints invading the runway. Checks, stripes, and houndstooth patterns  made appearances on the runways of labels like Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Michael Kors and Dolce & Gabbana, offering a pleasant alternative to spring’s tried-and-true florals and providing a bit of deja vu. Granted, these design elements are timeless, but fans of ’60s style will recognize the cuts and patterns that make up these new designs as the hallmarks of mod innovators. Take a look at  the work of Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant, André Courrèges, and Ossie Clark,  and you can’t help but see where Marc Jacobs and co. took their lead from.

With the very same designs getting major play in the pages of this month’s magazines, editors have been showcasing these looks in a variety of ways. Most choose to play up the retro appeal inherent in these collections by creating stories reminiscent of days past: what says ’60s more than an angular Vidal Sasson bob or an oversized bouffant? Others focus in on the graphic element, shooting the pieces against white backdrops and playing up the contrast.

 

PAST

Designer Ossie Clark and one of his creations

Models in Who Are You Polly Magoo, 1966

Houndstooth Coat, Ph. Art Kane, 1966

Designs by Andre Courreges,


PRESENT

Vogue Japan | Ph. Emma Summerton | Styling Patti Wilson | Model Aymeline Valade | Makeup Dotti


American Vogue | Ph. Steven Klein | Styling Grace Coddington | Models Carolyn Murphy and Karen Elson


Harper’s Bazaar | Ph. Greg Harris | Stylist Tony Irvine | Model Marte Mei van Haaster | Hair Akki Shirakawa | Makeup Pep Gay

Marte Mei van Haaster in Louis VuittonMarc Jacobs and Michael Kors


Harper’s Bazaar Spain Ph. Txema Yeste | Styling Melania Pan | Model Ginta Lapina | Hair Olivier Lebrun (See Management) | Makeup Christopher Kam

Ginta Lapina in Louis VuittonDolce & Gabbana & Michael Kors


Vogue Japan Ph. Victor Demarchelier (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists) | Styling Sabino Pantone | Model Jessica Stam | Hair Didier Malige | Makeup Adrien Pinault (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists)

Stam inLouis Vuitton & Acne


Vogue China Ph. Daniel Jackson | Styling Nicoletta Santoro | Models Kel Markey, Agnés Nabuurs, Athena Wilson, Bo Don & Chiharu Okunugi | Hair Yannick D’Is (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists) | Makeup Yadim

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State of Grace

November 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Grace Coddington by Sebastian Kim

On the eve of the publication of Grace Coddington‘s memoirs the famously flame haired fashion editor is everywhere. Pick up a copy of i-D Magazine‘s latest issue and you’ll see her on the cover, head to any news website worth its salt and you’ll find an excerpt from the tasteful tell-all (or just check it out on Vogue.com) detailing the backstory of some epic editorial moment straight from Vogue’s pages.  Indeed it seems we’re living in a state of Grace, so to speak, so what better time to look back on the trademarks of her work – those quintessential details that set her styling apart from everyone else. It would be impossible to go through twenty years of Grace and pick a few editorials that sum up the depth and diversity that make her work great, instead we look to four Coddington calling cards that are certain to appear in every one of her stories; glamour, history, fantasy and humour.


GLAMOUR

It goes without saying that Vogue is a repository for high-glamour imagery, but Grace has always pushed the borders of what that means. It isn’t enough to showcase off the runway looks or exquisite couture, the image has to convey something powerful and iconic.

‘The Heat of the Moment’ – Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Model Naomi Campbell American Vogue, March 1998

‘High Art’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue November 2004

‘Daydreams’ Photographer Steven Klein, Models Daria Werbowy and Natalia Vodianova American Vogue September 2004

‘Talk to Her’ Photographer – Steven Meisel, Models – Joan SmallsCoco RochaKaren ElsonGuinevere Van SeenusCaroline TrentiniLiya KebedeAbbey Lee KershawDaphne Groeneveld, American Vogue 2012


HISTORY

Recreating the look and feel of historical periods with contemporary design has become something of a Vogue standard and when Grace takes on history the end result is always memorable. From haute baroque, to 50s style Brando-chic and 70s style glam rock, her interpretations of the past have always been fresh and dynamic.

‘French Twists’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Models – Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, Gisele Bundchen, Daria Werbowy, Karen Elson, American Vogue May 2004

‘A Feast for the Eyes’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Models – Kylie Bax, Amy Wesson, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Behennah, Guinevere Van Seenus, Trish Goff, Chandra North,  American Vogue December 1996

‘Custom of the Country’ photographer Annie Leibovitz, Model Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue August 2012

‘Wild At Heart’ Photographer – Peter Lindbergh, Models – Helena ChristensenCindy Crawford,  Linda EvangelistaClaudia SchifferNaomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Tatjana Patitz, and Stephanie Seymour, American Vogue 1991

Rock the House, photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue, November 2001


FANTASY

No one creates a fantastical scenario via clothes quite like Grace does. Her instantly recognizable fairy tale collaboration with Annie Leibovitz has raised the bar for just about everyone by taking the familiar childhood tales and re-imagining them as fanciful fashion moments. Who says Alice can’t fall down the rabbit hole while wearing head to toe Tom Ford? Even with the elaborate sets, mythical allusions and high concept themes, Grace makes you notice the clothes first and foremost.

‘Joy to the World’ Photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue December 2002

‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ Photographer – Steven Klein, Models – Maggie Rizer, Trish Goff, Oluchi Onweagba, Liisa Winkler, Anouck Lepere, Karolina Kurkova, American Vogue June 2001

‘Garden of Delights’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Model – Caroline Trentini, American Vogue December 2006

‘Alice in Wonderland’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Natalia Vodianova , American Vogue December 2003

‘Wizard of Oz’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Keira Knightley, American Vogue December 2005

‘Romeo and Juliet’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Coco Rocha, American Vogue December 2008


HUMOUR

A concept that is regrettably missing in most fashion editorials yet always has a place in Grace’s work. Whether it is Stella Tennant leading a troop of boyscouts or Karen Elson starring as Grace herself, there is always that added touch of whimsy that makes her work a delight.

‘A Shot of Scotch’ Photographer – Arthur Elgort, Model – Linda Evangelista, American Vogue September 1991

‘Graceful Elegance’ Photographer – Steven Meisel, Model – Karen Elson, American Vogue August 2008

‘O’ Pioneers!’ Photographer – Arthur Elgort, Model – Stella Tennant, American Vogue June 2001

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Double Vision : Dior Couture

October 18th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Fashion shows are well and good, but the true test of a collection’s impact is often played out in the editorial pages. When you have multiple editors reaching for the same pieces over and over again you know a designer has hit a nerve. Even when the styling itself isn’t that noticeably different between images, there are always key changes in presentation that separate fashion stories; whether it is the model choice, the manner in which the photographer chose to present the garment, or even something as simple as color vs. black and white, each team puts its own special stamp on things. Take a look at the way in which different magazines have interpreted two of the most popular pieces within the collection and let us know who you think pulled it off best.

Look No. 48  

Black fitted cashmere top with a black duchess satin skirt embroidered with electric blue flowers.

Saskia de Brauw by Daniel Jackson for Vogue Germany, stylist Christiane Arp

Aymeline Valade by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue Japan, stylist Melanie Ward

Saskia de Brauw by Ruth Hogben for Another Magazine, stylist Katie Shillingford

Karlie Kloss by Eric Guillemain for Sunday Times Style Magazine, stylist Lucy Ewing

Hanaa Ben Abdesslem by Michelle Ferrara for Harper’s Bazaar Arabia, stylist Elaine Lloyd Jones | Suki Waterhouse by Marc Hom for Tatler, stylist Deep Kailey

Stef Van Der Laan by Luca Guadagnino for CR Fashion Book, stylist Carine Roitfeld

 

NiNi in Vogue China / Thana Kuhnen by Marcelo Krasilcic for L’Officiel

Look No. 8

Blue and pink embroidered cut-off ballgown with black cigarette pants

Keira Knightley by Mario Testino for American Vogue, stylist Grace Coddington

Milla Jovovich by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue Italia | Saskia de Brauw by Ruth Hogben for Another Magazine

Dior couture illustration by Ignasi Monreal for Spanish V Magazine

Aymeline Valade by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue Japanstylist Melanie Ward

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