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State of Grace

November 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Grace Coddington by Sebastian Kim

On the eve of the publication of Grace Coddington‘s memoirs the famously flame haired fashion editor is everywhere. Pick up a copy of i-D Magazine‘s latest issue and you’ll see her on the cover, head to any news website worth its salt and you’ll find an excerpt from the tasteful tell-all (or just check it out on Vogue.com) detailing the backstory of some epic editorial moment straight from Vogue’s pages.  Indeed it seems we’re living in a state of Grace, so to speak, so what better time to look back on the trademarks of her work – those quintessential details that set her styling apart from everyone else. It would be impossible to go through twenty years of Grace and pick a few editorials that sum up the depth and diversity that make her work great, instead we look to four Coddington calling cards that are certain to appear in every one of her stories; glamour, history, fantasy and humour.


GLAMOUR

It goes without saying that Vogue is a repository for high-glamour imagery, but Grace has always pushed the borders of what that means. It isn’t enough to showcase off the runway looks or exquisite couture, the image has to convey something powerful and iconic.

‘The Heat of the Moment’ – Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Model Naomi Campbell American Vogue, March 1998

‘High Art’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue November 2004

‘Daydreams’ Photographer Steven Klein, Models Daria Werbowy and Natalia Vodianova American Vogue September 2004

‘Talk to Her’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Models - Joan SmallsCoco RochaKaren ElsonGuinevere Van SeenusCaroline TrentiniLiya KebedeAbbey Lee KershawDaphne Groeneveld, American Vogue 2012


HISTORY

Recreating the look and feel of historical periods with contemporary design has become something of a Vogue standard and when Grace takes on history the end result is always memorable. From haute baroque, to 50s style Brando-chic and 70s style glam rock, her interpretations of the past have always been fresh and dynamic.

‘French Twists’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Models – Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, Gisele Bundchen, Daria Werbowy, Karen Elson, American Vogue May 2004

‘A Feast for the Eyes’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Models – Kylie Bax, Amy Wesson, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Behennah, Guinevere Van Seenus, Trish Goff, Chandra North,  American Vogue December 1996

‘Custom of the Country’ photographer Annie Leibovitz, Model Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue August 2012

‘Wild At Heart’ Photographer - Peter Lindbergh, Models – Helena ChristensenCindy Crawford,  Linda EvangelistaClaudia SchifferNaomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Tatjana Patitz, and Stephanie Seymour, American Vogue 1991

Rock the House, photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue, November 2001


FANTASY

No one creates a fantastical scenario via clothes quite like Grace does. Her instantly recognizable fairy tale collaboration with Annie Leibovitz has raised the bar for just about everyone by taking the familiar childhood tales and re-imagining them as fanciful fashion moments. Who says Alice can’t fall down the rabbit hole while wearing head to toe Tom Ford? Even with the elaborate sets, mythical allusions and high concept themes, Grace makes you notice the clothes first and foremost.

‘Joy to the World’ Photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue December 2002

‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ Photographer – Steven Klein, Models – Maggie Rizer, Trish Goff, Oluchi Onweagba, Liisa Winkler, Anouck Lepere, Karolina Kurkova, American Vogue June 2001

‘Garden of Delights’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Model - Caroline Trentini, American Vogue December 2006

‘Alice in Wonderland’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova , American Vogue December 2003

‘Wizard of Oz’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Keira Knightley, American Vogue December 2005

‘Romeo and Juliet’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Coco Rocha, American Vogue December 2008


HUMOUR

A concept that is regrettably missing in most fashion editorials yet always has a place in Grace’s work. Whether it is Stella Tennant leading a troop of boyscouts or Karen Elson starring as Grace herself, there is always that added touch of whimsy that makes her work a delight.

‘A Shot of Scotch’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Linda Evangelista, American Vogue September 1991

‘Graceful Elegance’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Model - Karen Elson, American Vogue August 2008

‘O’ Pioneers!’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Stella Tennant, American Vogue June 2001

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Posted in: General news

Balenciaga Moments

November 5th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Nicolas Ghesquiere by Steven Meisel

We were shocked and a bit saddened today to hear of Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s departure from Balenciaga. After 15 years at the legendary house, Ghesquiere is parting ways with the luxury powerhouse, a label he helped become one of the most influential and respected in the business. Though we know this is likely the start of an exciting new beginning (let the rumors begin) we can’t help but look back at a few of our absolute favorite Balenciaga moments, from the very first collection to those infamous leggings. Take a look at our favorites and let us know yours in the comments.


THE REVIVAL

In 2012 it seems like there are new designers shuffling in to breathe life into old houses every few months, that wasn’t so much the case back in 1997. At 25 after assisting designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and paying his dues behind the scenes at several brands, Ghesquière came to Balenciaga to design for the brand’s Japanese licensing partner. Hardly the most glamourous gig – but his talent was evident and soon he found himself creative director of a brand that had yet to rediscover its footing. His first show back in S/S 98 changed all that, with a darkly chic update on the brand’s identity that made the fashion press stand up and take notice. View the collection in full for yourself at Balenciaga.com.


THE BAG

Seasonal styles of the popular Balenciaga bags

It bags come and go, but modern classics are very rare indeed. Ghesquière knocked the ball out of the park when he launched Balenciaga’s Lariat bag in 2000, the oft imitated but never duplicated style has been seen on the arm of everyone from Mary-Kate Olsen to Carine Roitfeld and is still going strong.


THE GAINSBOURG CONNECTION

Nicolas Ghesquiere and Charlotte Gainsbourg by Jean Paul Goude for Harper’s Bazaar

Twilight cutie Kristen Stewart may be the latest actress to catch Ghesquière’s eye, but the original Balenciaga-fille has got to be Charlotte Gainsbourg, a woman whose idiosyncratic beauty and avant-garde career choices mirror the spirit of Ghesquière’s boundary breaking aesthetic. Serving as both muse and face of the line’s signature fragrances, Gainsbourg is a fixture in the Balenciaga front row and in the brand’s iconography.


THE FLOWERS

Jennifer Connolly for Balenciaga S/S 08 by David Sims

It is hard to go back through Ghesquière’s 15 years at Balenciaga and pick the most memorable collections, each collection has its own merits but there are a few that take on special significance. S/S 2008′s floral explosion remains one of the most daring and influential, just when we thought we knew what to expect we got hit with a strong dose of flower power. Reactions to the collection may have been divisive, but it jumpstarted the current craze for bold, head-to-toe print and has been replicated by everyone from H&M to Celine.


THE ARCHIVES


Cristobal Balenciaga Cape, 1963 – Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere F/W 2006 cape on Coco Rocha

Every designer working at a storied house has access to a wealth of archival inspiration, but only a select few put it to good use. Ghesquière was always adept at taking Cristobal’s shapes and points of reference, then modernizing them, either with subtle changes or grand re imaginings. Take a look at how Cristóbal’s 1963 cape compared to the oversized brocade cape from the F/W 06 show.


MOD MOMENTUM

Freja Beha Erichsen for Balenciaga F/W 05 by David Sims

Sixties style mod looks often found a place on Ghesquière’s runways and made for some of the most memorable looks; who can forget the mod touches in the F/W 05 and F/W 06 collections?


MARIE AMELIE

Marie Amelie’s interpretation of Balenciaga in Strict Elegance from Interview – Ph. Craig McDean

As much as we love Nicolas’ work, all the credit for Balenciaga’s longstanding cultural impact can’t rest solely on his shoulders. As the brand’s stylist, muse and loyal supporter, Marie-Amélie Sauvé has shaped the Balenciaga look for years on the runway and in numerous editorials. Some of our favorite Balenciaga moments occurred while looking at her artful and creative interpretations of that look in the pages of magazines like Interview and Vogue Paris.


i-ROBOT

Kate Moss by Sølve Sundsbø for Numero Tokyo‘s inaugural issue.

Perhaps the singularly most infamous pair of leggings in history and certainly one of the most iconic Balenciaga pieces of all time. How many leggings find their way onto the bodies of Terence Koh, Kate Moss and Beyoncé Knowles? Not to mention the omnipresent place these leggings held in fashion edits for nearly a year. We love it when Balenciaga goes on a sci-fi streak!


THE GIRLS 

Balenciaga S/S 2002 by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Every season we’ve looked forward to see which beauties would be featured in the Balenciaga campaign and to date we’ve yet to be disappointed. Whether it is a bonafide supermodel like Gisele Bundchen, or Christy Turlington or a fresh crop of brand new faces, Balenciaga always goes for the unexpected and remains one of the few brands whose campaigns can really launch a compelling face.


THE COPYCATS

The one thing we’ll miss most about Ghesquire at Balenciaga is his ability to kickstart a design trend. There are whole websites devoted to looks cribbed from Balenciaga and while all designers get inspired by each other every now and then it was always amusing to see who was drawing inspiration from Ghesquire.


THE EDITORIALS

There were and are so many great editorial images that involved Balenciaga, but we’ll end on this great shot of Gemma Ward by Nick Knight for Pop Magazine.

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Posted in: General news

A New Star

May 16th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Emmanuelle Alt is a creature of habit and the pages of Vogue Paris during her tenure reflect that. We’ve come to expect the same photographers, the same creative teams and the same models month after month – nothing wrong with that mind you, but we can’t help but miss the good ol’ days. Carine Roitfeld had a wonderful habit of picking a fresh model and highlighting her with a great story or cover – one of the many things that kept the magazine exciting. Even though we’re treated to the joy of seasoned supermodel Gisele Bundchen on the June  VP cover, we’re still more interested in the VP newcomers.

Nadja Bender makes her Vogue Paris debut in chic style with an only-girl story by David Sims. The graphic and gorgeous shoot is styled by Joe McKenna and features his signature panache, with visors, veils and those Stella McCartney pjs all making an appearance. The end result is a story that feels retro (we’re getting Marlene Dietrich vibes in some shots) but is clearly rooted in the now. Bender registers beautifully in each shot, even managing to make that quilted Balmain vest look good.

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A Brief History of Actors & Models

May 11th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

It is a proven fact that Hollywood actors cannot resist models – Leonardo Dicaprio we’re looking at you – so it is no surprise that magazines frequently pair actors & models together in covers and in editorials. We’re not sure why magazines always go for the actor + models combo instead of say actresses and male models (c’mon someone get Scarlett Johansson and Sean O’Pry  together already) but it is a proven formula that can produce beautiful results.

Or incredibly awkward and somewhat confusing results. Lets take a look back at some of our favorite model meets actor moments – the good, the bad and the just plain weird.

2012: W Magazine  : Tom Cruise + Abbey Lee Kershaw & Edita Vilkeviciute by Mario Sorrenti

W Magazine knows how to push all the right buttons don’t they? What better way to promote the blissfully cheesy 80s jukebox musical Rock of Ages than to put its star on the cover looking like a latter day Bret Michaels? Edita Vilkeviciute and Abbey Lee Kershaw are bringing the heat, but we can’t help but feel that Cruise looks more than a little uncomfortable. Perhaps this is simply his version of bored rock star blasé, but he manages to make standing between two of the world’s most beautiful girls look like a chore; to be honest he had more chemistry with Jeremy Renner in MI:4.

2012: Vogue Espana Clive Owen & Toni Garrn by Alexi Lubomirski

Love Toni, Love Clive. Love the city of Paris. Still he looks like her dad in this. Sorry. Unless they were going for the whole “cool dad takes his glamazon daughter to France thing”, if so then it totally works.

2012: American Vogue - Michael Fassbender and Natalia Vodianova by Craig McDean

Let’s be honest they make the ultimate austere couple.

2012: American Vogue - Eddie Redmayne & Karlie Kloss by Mario Testino

Young love minus the pimples.

2011: American Vogue – Jeremy Irvine & Arizona Muse by David Sims

Ok ok. This is a blatant promo for the film War Horse, but hey it made for an amazing editorial, atmospheric, rich and a showcase for some spectacular fashion.

2010 American Vogue - Ewan McGregor & Natalia Vodianova by Peter Lindbergh

Are you starting to see how much American Vogue likes this concept?

2009: American Vogue - Morgan Freeman & Lara Stone by Bruce Weber

Lara Stone and Morgan Freeman taking a walk around New Orleans, oh to have been a fly on the wall for this shoot…

2008: American Vogue - Jon Hamm & Catherine McNeil by Mario Testino

Let Don Draper show you how it’s done. McNeil and Hamm had a great rapport in all their images, in his Vogue profile he describes her as, “adorable and sweet and so much younger than me that it is terrifying.” Age concerns aside the Testino shoot struck the right balance between glamourous fashion fantasy and celebrity profile.

2006: Vanity Fair - George Clooney & Gemma Ward by Norman Jean Roy

The old Hollywood director and his brand new muse – is it too early to label an editorial a modern classic?

2006: American Vogue – Eric Bana & Gisele Bundchen by Mario Testino

Gisele gets roped into this sort of thing a lot…

2005: American Vogue - Josh Hartnett & Gemma Ward

Can you tell that this gorgeous duo started dating after this was shot?

2004: American Vogue Daria Werbowy and Jake Gyllenhaal

Going out on a limb and saying that Jake had the most fun on this shoot.

1992: Kyle Maclachlan & Linda Evangelista for Barneys

In the years prior to the François-Henri Pinault scandal, Linda dated Twin Peaks star Kyle MacLachlan and found time to appear with him in ads for Barneys and a Meisel Vogue story. Unfortunately the couple that poses together doesn’t always stay together and they broke things off in the mid-90s.

1992: Richard Gere and Cindy Crawford by Herb Ritts

Does it get better than this? The answer is no it doesn’t. It does not get any better, Orlando Bloom and Miranda Kerr are not going to give you this kind of movie star & model chicness, bask in the glory of this cover.

And none for Leo.

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The Biz: Met Madness!

May 8th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Suvi Koponen & Bonnie Chen before the MET Gala | Image by The Coveteur

How do you get ready for the year’s biggest party? Take a look at the MET Prep of two of the evening’s loveliest ladies Suvi Koponen and Bonnie Chen were guests of Chloe’s Clare Waight Keller and they wore a pair of gorgeous gowns from the label. Take a peek at their behind the scenes process, all captured beautifully by The Coveteur.

Tom Brady with Gisele in Givenchy | Image courtesy of Givenchy

Want to see the best dressed of the evening from the MET’s Costume Institute Gala – take a look at all the red carpet action. Who do you think was looking good last night – we were loving the divine Gisele Bundchen in GivenchyJoan Smalls in Balmain,  Anja Rubik in Anthony Vaccarello, Constance Jablonski in Haider Ackermann and actress Carey Mulligan in of course, Prada.

Mario Testino withAngela LindvallCandice Swanepoel and Rosie Huntington Whiteley | Image by Kevin Tachman

After the party is of course the afterparty – get a birds eye view of the festivities with the incredible candid images captured by Kevin Tachman. Inside you’ll see every celebrity, every model, every designers oh and really cute picture of Hamish Bowles hitting the champagne.

In non-MET news, Esteban Cortezar relaunches with Net-A-Porter glad to see him back on the scene! Hoping to see something sexy

McQueen’s Sarah Burton honored by Academy of Art, the designer was awarded an honorary doctorate from the university.

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Step Into Spring

December 21st, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

Spring’s fresh campaigns keep coming in - take a look at the latest and tell us which are your favorites!

Mariacarla Boscono for Yves Saint Laurent by David Sims

Sporting streamlined eyebrows by Diane Kendal and short bangs Guido Palau, Mariacarla looks strong and sexy in David Sims’ campaign for the mega-brand. After over a decade of campaigns helmed by either Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin or Juergen Teller Sims’ sleek style feels fresh.

Gisele Bundchen for Givenchy by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott

Life’s a beach for the Givenchy girl and Tisci’s surf & scuba inspired collection shines on the backs of Gisele Bundchen & brand muse Mariacarla Boscono. Posing alongside boogie boards in M&M’s subdued shots, the duo looks chic albeit slightly grim. After last season’s aggressive ads this is an interesting change of pace.

Kasia Struss for Moschino by Juergen Teller

The Moschino travel diary continues; this season the brand jets to Rome to create some classic Italian ambiance complete with vintage Fiats circling Kasia Struss and the Colosseum as a backdrop. Viva Moschino!

Raquel Zimmermann for Nina Ricci by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

The Nina Ricci sensibility has always been about feminine & ethereal designs. Inez & Vinoodh’s campaign images capture that ideal with a shot of Raquel Zimmermann rushing across the hall in a Peter Copping designed gown fit for a princess.

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December Gifts

November 28th, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

This year the presents come early with December covers dedicated to all things model. From Harper’s Bazaar UK dedicating space to the original supers with a special on Duran Duran’s Girl Panic video, to Karlie Kloss wrapped up like a gift on Vogue Germany, you get the very best of beautiful girls. Tell us which all star cover is your favorite!

Heather Marks for Vogue Hellas December 2011

Karlie Kloss by Alexi Lubomirski for Vogue Germany | Jacquelyn Jablonski for Vogue Turkey December 2011

Gisele Bundchen by Mario Testino for British Vogue

Dree Hemingway by Bruce Weber for Vogue Spain December | Hailey Clauson by Catherine Servel for W Korea

Doutzen Kroes by Tiziano Magni for Numero China

Yasmin LeBon, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen, Cindy Crawford and Eva Herzigova for Harper’s Bazaar UK

Magdalena Frackowiak for Vogue Mexico

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Posted in: General news

Heavy Hitters

August 11th, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

i-D Magazine brings out the big guns for the covers of their Pick Me Up Issue, enlisting modeling superstars Gisele BundchenRaquel Zimmermann Natasha Poly, Lindsey Wixson and newcomer Riley Keough to give winks on the cover.  Inside the issue you’ll find pieces on Harry Potter alum, Emma Watson, alongside editorials featuring Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Guinevere Van Seenus and more.

To keep up with all things Pick Me Up – check out i-D Online

 

Caroline Brasch Nielsen by Laura Sciacovelli fashion editor Charlotte Stockdale

Emma Watson by Mariano Vivanco

Guinevere Van Seenus by Karim Sadli

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