First Look: Glass

April 2nd, 2013 |Posted by Janelle

With each issue Glass Magazine chicly presents the season’s key trends while providing a wealth of information. For their 3rd anniversary, the publication looks to peace creating an issue filled with colorful, harmonious imagery. Xiao Wen Ju, Coco Rocha and Anais Pouliot grace three uniquely appealing covers united by their clean design and beauty. The accompanying editorials are fresh and dynamic, from posing queen Coco giving her all in a richly hued beauty story, to Anais’ seductive turn and Xiao Wen’s innate cuteness – peer inside the latest issue of Glass for all that and then some.

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Ph. Chris Craymer | Fashion Editor | Sarah Cobb | Model Xiao Wen Ju


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Ph. Mark Shearwood | Fashion Editor - David Nolan | Model – Karl Morrall


SECOND GUY

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Ph. Chad Pickard & Paul McLean | Fashion Editor - David Nolan | Model - Harry Goodwins


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Ph. Jason Hetherington | Beauty Director – Kim Brown | Model - Coco Rocha


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Ph. Bojana Tatarska | Fashion Editor - Nicola Kavanagh | Model - Anais Pouliot


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Ph. Damon Heath | Fashion Editor – Michelle Duguid | Model - Anmari Botha

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EXCLUSIVE: Longchamp Leaps

December 13th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Take a first look at the S/S 13 campaign from Longchamp, in all its glory. Shot in JFK airport’s historic, Eero Saarinen designed TWA terminal, the campaign is all about movement; who better to embody that idea, than the jet setting, high flying and haute posing, Coco Rocha! In her third season working with the luxe brand, Coco delivers her signature acrobatic poses all while playing the part of ultra-chic traveler, a role we’re sure she’s familiar with. Fellow catwalker Liisa Winkler joins her for the journey, since every trip is better with a fashionable friend and the duo busts a move even as they head through airport security. Fun fact: choreographer Salim Gauwloos, the man behind Madonna‘s Blonde Ambition tour collaborated on the imagery. Take a first look at the new ads and the behind the scenes imagery below.


BEHIND THE SCENES

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State of Grace

November 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Grace Coddington by Sebastian Kim

On the eve of the publication of Grace Coddington‘s memoirs the famously flame haired fashion editor is everywhere. Pick up a copy of i-D Magazine‘s latest issue and you’ll see her on the cover, head to any news website worth its salt and you’ll find an excerpt from the tasteful tell-all (or just check it out on Vogue.com) detailing the backstory of some epic editorial moment straight from Vogue’s pages.  Indeed it seems we’re living in a state of Grace, so to speak, so what better time to look back on the trademarks of her work – those quintessential details that set her styling apart from everyone else. It would be impossible to go through twenty years of Grace and pick a few editorials that sum up the depth and diversity that make her work great, instead we look to four Coddington calling cards that are certain to appear in every one of her stories; glamour, history, fantasy and humour.


GLAMOUR

It goes without saying that Vogue is a repository for high-glamour imagery, but Grace has always pushed the borders of what that means. It isn’t enough to showcase off the runway looks or exquisite couture, the image has to convey something powerful and iconic.

‘The Heat of the Moment’ – Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Model Naomi Campbell American Vogue, March 1998

‘High Art’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue November 2004

‘Daydreams’ Photographer Steven Klein, Models Daria Werbowy and Natalia Vodianova American Vogue September 2004

‘Talk to Her’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Models - Joan SmallsCoco RochaKaren ElsonGuinevere Van SeenusCaroline TrentiniLiya KebedeAbbey Lee KershawDaphne Groeneveld, American Vogue 2012


HISTORY

Recreating the look and feel of historical periods with contemporary design has become something of a Vogue standard and when Grace takes on history the end result is always memorable. From haute baroque, to 50s style Brando-chic and 70s style glam rock, her interpretations of the past have always been fresh and dynamic.

‘French Twists’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Models – Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, Gisele Bundchen, Daria Werbowy, Karen Elson, American Vogue May 2004

‘A Feast for the Eyes’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Models – Kylie Bax, Amy Wesson, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Behennah, Guinevere Van Seenus, Trish Goff, Chandra North,  American Vogue December 1996

‘Custom of the Country’ photographer Annie Leibovitz, Model Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue August 2012

‘Wild At Heart’ Photographer - Peter Lindbergh, Models – Helena ChristensenCindy Crawford,  Linda EvangelistaClaudia SchifferNaomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Tatjana Patitz, and Stephanie Seymour, American Vogue 1991

Rock the House, photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue, November 2001


FANTASY

No one creates a fantastical scenario via clothes quite like Grace does. Her instantly recognizable fairy tale collaboration with Annie Leibovitz has raised the bar for just about everyone by taking the familiar childhood tales and re-imagining them as fanciful fashion moments. Who says Alice can’t fall down the rabbit hole while wearing head to toe Tom Ford? Even with the elaborate sets, mythical allusions and high concept themes, Grace makes you notice the clothes first and foremost.

‘Joy to the World’ Photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue December 2002

‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ Photographer – Steven Klein, Models – Maggie Rizer, Trish Goff, Oluchi Onweagba, Liisa Winkler, Anouck Lepere, Karolina Kurkova, American Vogue June 2001

‘Garden of Delights’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Model - Caroline Trentini, American Vogue December 2006

‘Alice in Wonderland’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova , American Vogue December 2003

‘Wizard of Oz’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Keira Knightley, American Vogue December 2005

‘Romeo and Juliet’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Coco Rocha, American Vogue December 2008


HUMOUR

A concept that is regrettably missing in most fashion editorials yet always has a place in Grace’s work. Whether it is Stella Tennant leading a troop of boyscouts or Karen Elson starring as Grace herself, there is always that added touch of whimsy that makes her work a delight.

‘A Shot of Scotch’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Linda Evangelista, American Vogue September 1991

‘Graceful Elegance’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Model - Karen Elson, American Vogue August 2008

‘O’ Pioneers!’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Stella Tennant, American Vogue June 2001

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Balenciaga Moments

November 5th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Nicolas Ghesquiere by Steven Meisel

We were shocked and a bit saddened today to hear of Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s departure from Balenciaga. After 15 years at the legendary house, Ghesquiere is parting ways with the luxury powerhouse, a label he helped become one of the most influential and respected in the business. Though we know this is likely the start of an exciting new beginning (let the rumors begin) we can’t help but look back at a few of our absolute favorite Balenciaga moments, from the very first collection to those infamous leggings. Take a look at our favorites and let us know yours in the comments.


THE REVIVAL

In 2012 it seems like there are new designers shuffling in to breathe life into old houses every few months, that wasn’t so much the case back in 1997. At 25 after assisting designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and paying his dues behind the scenes at several brands, Ghesquière came to Balenciaga to design for the brand’s Japanese licensing partner. Hardly the most glamourous gig – but his talent was evident and soon he found himself creative director of a brand that had yet to rediscover its footing. His first show back in S/S 98 changed all that, with a darkly chic update on the brand’s identity that made the fashion press stand up and take notice. View the collection in full for yourself at Balenciaga.com.


THE BAG

Seasonal styles of the popular Balenciaga bags

It bags come and go, but modern classics are very rare indeed. Ghesquière knocked the ball out of the park when he launched Balenciaga’s Lariat bag in 2000, the oft imitated but never duplicated style has been seen on the arm of everyone from Mary-Kate Olsen to Carine Roitfeld and is still going strong.


THE GAINSBOURG CONNECTION

Nicolas Ghesquiere and Charlotte Gainsbourg by Jean Paul Goude for Harper’s Bazaar

Twilight cutie Kristen Stewart may be the latest actress to catch Ghesquière’s eye, but the original Balenciaga-fille has got to be Charlotte Gainsbourg, a woman whose idiosyncratic beauty and avant-garde career choices mirror the spirit of Ghesquière’s boundary breaking aesthetic. Serving as both muse and face of the line’s signature fragrances, Gainsbourg is a fixture in the Balenciaga front row and in the brand’s iconography.


THE FLOWERS

Jennifer Connolly for Balenciaga S/S 08 by David Sims

It is hard to go back through Ghesquière’s 15 years at Balenciaga and pick the most memorable collections, each collection has its own merits but there are a few that take on special significance. S/S 2008′s floral explosion remains one of the most daring and influential, just when we thought we knew what to expect we got hit with a strong dose of flower power. Reactions to the collection may have been divisive, but it jumpstarted the current craze for bold, head-to-toe print and has been replicated by everyone from H&M to Celine.


THE ARCHIVES


Cristobal Balenciaga Cape, 1963 – Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere F/W 2006 cape on Coco Rocha

Every designer working at a storied house has access to a wealth of archival inspiration, but only a select few put it to good use. Ghesquière was always adept at taking Cristobal’s shapes and points of reference, then modernizing them, either with subtle changes or grand re imaginings. Take a look at how Cristóbal’s 1963 cape compared to the oversized brocade cape from the F/W 06 show.


MOD MOMENTUM

Freja Beha Erichsen for Balenciaga F/W 05 by David Sims

Sixties style mod looks often found a place on Ghesquière’s runways and made for some of the most memorable looks; who can forget the mod touches in the F/W 05 and F/W 06 collections?


MARIE AMELIE

Marie Amelie’s interpretation of Balenciaga in Strict Elegance from Interview – Ph. Craig McDean

As much as we love Nicolas’ work, all the credit for Balenciaga’s longstanding cultural impact can’t rest solely on his shoulders. As the brand’s stylist, muse and loyal supporter, Marie-Amélie Sauvé has shaped the Balenciaga look for years on the runway and in numerous editorials. Some of our favorite Balenciaga moments occurred while looking at her artful and creative interpretations of that look in the pages of magazines like Interview and Vogue Paris.


i-ROBOT

Kate Moss by Sølve Sundsbø for Numero Tokyo‘s inaugural issue.

Perhaps the singularly most infamous pair of leggings in history and certainly one of the most iconic Balenciaga pieces of all time. How many leggings find their way onto the bodies of Terence Koh, Kate Moss and Beyoncé Knowles? Not to mention the omnipresent place these leggings held in fashion edits for nearly a year. We love it when Balenciaga goes on a sci-fi streak!


THE GIRLS 

Balenciaga S/S 2002 by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Every season we’ve looked forward to see which beauties would be featured in the Balenciaga campaign and to date we’ve yet to be disappointed. Whether it is a bonafide supermodel like Gisele Bundchen, or Christy Turlington or a fresh crop of brand new faces, Balenciaga always goes for the unexpected and remains one of the few brands whose campaigns can really launch a compelling face.


THE COPYCATS

The one thing we’ll miss most about Ghesquire at Balenciaga is his ability to kickstart a design trend. There are whole websites devoted to looks cribbed from Balenciaga and while all designers get inspired by each other every now and then it was always amusing to see who was drawing inspiration from Ghesquire.


THE EDITORIALS

There were and are so many great editorial images that involved Balenciaga, but we’ll end on this great shot of Gemma Ward by Nick Knight for Pop Magazine.

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Heroes

July 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

25 Magazine pays tribute to the model altruists, with a beautiful special portfolio by Paola Kudacki. Focusing on women with “brains, savvy and, perhaps most significantly, dedication to a cause close to their heart” the series features Iman, Anja Rubik, Veronika Varekova,Elettra Wiedemann, Coco Rocha, Petra Nemcova, Liya Kebede, Katharina Harf, Summer Rayne and Helena Christensen in striking black and white images.

All photos courtesy of 25 Magazine

Anja Rubik

Liya Kebede

Elettra Wiedemann

Summer Rayne

Coco Rocha

Iman Abdulmajid

Petra Nemcova

Veronika Varekova

Helena Christensen

Katharina Harf

 

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Better Than Brad? : 5 Chanel Campaign Alternatives

May 10th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Obvious fake ad is obviously fake 

Like everyone else on earth when we heard the news that Hollywood star Brad Pitt was going to be fronting the latest Chanel No. 5 campaign we were surprised. While we like Pitt well enough, we’d rather see him headlining a blockbuster than waxing poetic about fragrance. Unless of course he’s wearing the Chanel No. 5 scent himself – that we’d like to hear about. Celebrities have a long history with Chanel No. 5, with everyone from Catherine Deneuve, Carole Bouquet and Nicole Kidman fronting the campaign, but we’re of the mindset that no one does it better than a model.

Granted, we understand that a having a mega-popular superstar in an ad will probably get a brand more attention than they know what to do with and all publicity is good publicity, but we can’t help but ponder which models would have been just as good when it comes to posing. Here are 5 Karl approved alternative who could fill Brad’s shoes – just in case they decide to go in another direction next time…

THE OTHER BRADBrad Kroenig

Wouldn’t it be nice to see Karl’s favorite blonde Brad snatch up a high profile campaign like Chanel No. 5? It could be cute – imagine little Hudson sneaking into every picture!

THE MODEL TURNED MUSICIANBaptiste Giabiconi

Think of the accompanying campaign music video complete with Katy Perry cameo! Think of the general online outrage it would spark! Think of the gifs!

THE GIRLSSaskia de Brauw, Jac JagaciakCoco RochaFreja Beha ErichsenHeidi Mount - the list goes on!

Who says the new campaign has to be fronted by a guy? Forget the gimmicks and go with a group of models who have the star power, personality and presence to pull off anything. Saskia is already in Chanel’s latest ads, Jac Jagaciak is already the face of Chanel beauty and Coco is a perennial Lagerfeld fave who gets bonus points for tweeting her contention with the Pitt appointment. Feisty! We like it!

THE ACTRESSES – Mélanie Laurent, Mylène Jampanoï or Anna Mouglalis

If it absolutely has to be a celebrity, couldn’t the honor go to one of the gorgeous stars of French cinema? Sure Nicolas Ghesquiere has already got his claws in Charlotte Gainsbourg and Léa Seydoux is still representing Prada, but what of the superb, Mylène Jampanoï or Karl muse Anna Mouglalis? Granted, neither of them have the name recognition of Pitt, but what they lack in international attention they more than make up for in chic.

THE META MOVEKarl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld shot by Karl Lagerfeld dressed in Chanel designs by Karl Lagerfeld, with creative direction by Karl Lagerfeld and special thanks to Karl Lagerfeld. This could work.

All this said, we’re still curious about just what the Chanel / Pitt collaboration will look like. We secretly loved that ridiculous (and ridiculously beautiful) Nicole Kidman No. 5 short film.

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#OVERTHETOP

March 12th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Vogue Italia has never shied from controversy and its March cover story has people talking left and right. From The Huffington Post, to Jezebel debate is raging over whether or not the story is in poor taste, misguided and/or exploiting negative stereotypes about blacks and Latinos. On the Vogue Italia website, the inspiration for the story is listed asmessy drags: untidy, dishevelled, counter-intuitive cross-dressers.” Meanwhile Jezebel’s intrepid Jenna Sauers, found direct links between the hair styles featured in the editorial and the gallery of Ghetto Fabulous Edible Hair dos. We can’t help but wonder what the originators of those colorful, candy-inspired styles think of the VI story and its intentions.

Controversy aside, the Steven Meisel cover of Joan Smalls marks the first time a black model has been on the cover of VI since the infamous Black Issue, which makes another triumph for Joan. Getting a VI cover is always a coup for a model, but considering how rare it is to see a woman of color fronting the world’s most influential fashion mag, this is kind of a big deal. Perhaps the greater controversy is the fact that there are multi-year periods where we just don’t see  people of color on the covers of our fashion mags.

Styling: Lori Goldstein  | Makeup: Pat McGrath |  Hair: Jimmy Paul | Models: Abbey Lee Kershaw, Coco Rocha, Guinevere Van Seenus, Jessica Stam, Karen Elson, Lindsey Wixson, and Daphne Groeneveld


See the full Haute Mess story on Vogue.It

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mdc ♥s : scents to fall for

October 20th, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

Flower Power – Coco Rocha by Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello for Numero June/July 2008

With the weather cooling down and the season’s new wares in stock, now is the perfect time to select a new fall scent. Hundreds of perfumes launch each month, but which are the best of the best? MDC presents our selection of the finest fragrances.

Chanel No. 19 Poudre – Like a string of pearls, or the classic tweed jacket a Chanel fragrance is something that will never go out of style. Chanel’s In house fragrance maestro Jacques Polge updated the classic no. 19 (Coco’s signature perfume) for a new generation, infusing the effervescent chypre with notes of neroli, galbanum, jasmine, iris, white musk, vetiver and tonka bean. The end result is a fragrance that merges the modern and the traditional, into a glamorous package, much like Lagerfeld’s coveted designs for the house. | 50ml – $85

Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau – As one of the most idiosyncratic names in fragrance, you can always expect the unexpected from Serge Lutens. His latest, Jeux de Peau is meant to capture the the familiar aroma of fresh baked bread, but with its heady combo of coconut, licorice, osmanthus and apricot it smells far more exotic. If you’re in the mood for something warm and enveloping to take you through the seasonal chills this is it. | 50ml – $120

Bottega Veneta - Taking the two things Bottega is known for – leather and luxury – then transforming them into a perfume is no small feat, but line’s first fragrance manages it admirably. Like a finely crafted Tomas Maier accessory the scent is chic and understated. A unique combination of leather, oakmoss, patchouli and florals makes for an exceptionally refined concoction. | 50ml $95

Diptyque Eau Particulière – To celebrate their 50th Anniversary of Diptyque, perfumer Olivier Pescheux combined the best of both worlds to create a fragrance you can wear or use throughout the home. On paper the idea seems off-kilter, but one sniff of this phenomenal combo of rose, musk and mint and you’ll be hooked. Add in the inherent beauty of an old school atomizer and you have one unforgettable keepsake – but hurry, this one is a limited edition! | 8oz $135

Tom Ford Violet Blonde – Time and again Tom Ford gives us the ultimate in glamour. If Violet Blonde were a woman it would be Veronica Lake with her platinum waves falling over one eye, or campaign star Lara Stone unleashing her inner vixen. This isn’t a fragrance for wallflowers: the opulence of violet leaf, jasmine and cedar make for a vibrant scent that automatically commands attention. One spray and you feel just a little more dressed up, a tiny bit sexier. We’d like to think that this is the fragrant equivalent of putting on one of those sequined numbers from the Ford collection. | 50ml $100

Byredo Bal d’Afrique – Could Midnight In Paris have a perfume equivalent? Byredo’s Bal d’ Afrique is inspired by Josephine Baker and the electrifying nightlife of Paris in the 1920s. Byredo never fails to create scents that are outside the box and when paired with amber, jasmin, cyclamen and moroccan cedarwood the vetiver and bergamot based scent feels lush and decadent. You can almost hear the strains of J’ai deux amours the moment you spray. | 50ml $145

Esprit d’Oscar – Feminine, classic and filled with joy, Esprit d’Oscar is all you’d expect from an Oscar De La Renta fragrance. With a luscious tuberose note, surrounded by heliotrope, vetiver, tonka bean, the scent is as warm and comforting as a cashmere sweater. Easy to love and impossible to resist, the scent is completely in line with the iconic Oscar image. | 50ml $78

Prada Candy – An exquisite sweet treat for all you sugar addicts out there. We’ve come to think of Prada as the house for avant garde fashion innovation, but that doesn’t mean they can’t have a little fun every now and again! Caramel and benzoin equals bon bon in a bottle, but it never strays into cloying territory. | 50ml $80

Calvin Klein Forbidden Euphoria – For the girly girl in us all, a delightful mandarin infused mix of peony, orchid and the unexpected oomph of patchouli. Smells every bit as delicious as Barbara Palvin looks in the stunning ads. | 50ml $62

L’Artisan Traverse Du Bosphore - Adventure in a bottle! Inspired by a voyage to Istanbul, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour crafts a spellbinding mix of saffron, pomegranate, tulip and iris into an olfactory delight. | 50ml $120

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