Time Magazine‘s list of the 100 Greatest Fashion Icons is a compelling read. There are some obvious choices – Karl, Coco, Marc, Naomi, Linda & Kate are absolute icons. There are also few unsuspected surprises – we love The Row but, it was shocking to see the Olsen Twins mentioned alongside names like Schiaparelli and Prada. Perhaps the most interesting thing about the list were the names that don’t even appear at all. Time’s list passed over a host of bonafide icons from the world’s of design, entertainment and modeling. Here are 20 people Time missed that we think deserve to be held alongside the icons of the industry.
1. MADAME GRES
The legendary couturier, creator of the draped dress and one of the first designers to utilize the bias cut. Should be up there with Chanel!
Seminal American designer of the seventies, without the Halston look designers like Michael Kors wouldn’t exist.
3. THIERRY MUGLER
Mugler’s boundary pushing fashions defined the 80s and early 90s with their exaggerated proportions and dangerous sex appeal. Nicola Formichetti‘s revamp of Mugler’s label is nice and all, but nothing can ever compare to the original.
4. YOHJI YAMAMOTO
The unquestioned master of Japanese design – his omission from the list left us flabbergasted.
5. OLIVIER THEYSKENS
One of the brightest talents to emerge in the past decade. His designs at Rochas and Nina Ricci raised the bar for everyone in the industry and at Theory he continues to innovate.
MAKEUP ARTISTS & HAIR STYLISTS – there wasn’t a single makeup artist or hairstylist on the list and that in itself is downright criminal.
5. PAT McGRATH
From the game changing looks she’s created over the years on the runways, to her role in shaping Rooney Mara’s transformation in Girl With the Dragon tattoo, Pat has more than made an impact on the way we view makeup.
6. WAY BANDY
Creative genius behind those epic Scavullo shots that dominated the 70s and continue to inspire. Was one of the first makeup artists to step into the publishing field with his book, Designing Your Face.
7. VIDAL SASSOON (with Grace Coddington)
The man behind every geometic bob ever to exist and one of the first hair stylists to achieve celebrity status. Remember that gorgeous pixie Mia Farrow had in Rosemary’s Baby? You can thank Vidal for that.
One of the most photographed women of all time and the model in one of the most influential fashion films, Michelangelo Antonioni’s Blow Up.
9. CHRISTY TURLINGTON
You can’t exclude one of the most important members of the Trinity and not expect to hear about it. On top of being one of the most prolific supermodels ever, Christy’s continued humanitarian put her at the top of the list.
10. BROOKE SHIELDS
The face of the 80s in every way imaginable. From those unforgettable brows, to the Calvin ads that live on as the standard even now, Shields is iconic in every way.
11. MARILYN MONROE & ELIZABETH TAYLOR
Two legends of vintage style who didn’t make the list. We can’t think of a single more copied look than Marilyn’s pneumatic bottle blonde chic. The public frenzy over La Liz’s posthumous Christies auction all but proves her lasting influence as an icon of celebrity style.
12. IRIS APFEL
When the Met launches an entire collection based around your style, you know that you’re a legend. Apfel has inspired everyone from MAC Cosmetics, to labels like Suno, Prada and countless fashionphiles.
EDITORS / INSIDERS
13 & 14.CATHY HORYN & SUZY MENKES
The two strongest and most opinionated voices in fashion criticism surely deserve a spot on the iconic list. Besides, where would we be without Suzy’s inimitable hair croissant?
15. ANNA DELLO RUSSO
If the street style revolution has a face it belongs to the outlandish and perennially over the top, Ms. Dello Russo. If Lady Gaga gets a slot for sartorial antics, so should Anna.
16. POLLY MELLEN
From Miss Porter’s school to the pages of Vogue, Bazaar and Allure, in her nearly 50 year career Mellen contributed to some of fashion’s most memorable imagery.
17. PETER LINDBERGH
One of the more shocking omissions, Lindbergh’s signature cinematic style has stood the test of time.
18. MERT ALAS & MARCUS PIGGOTT
For better or worse their sleek, surreal style changed the landscape of fashion photography forever.
19. BILL CUNNINGHAM
The creator of street style and still its very best representative. Forget Sart, Garance, Tommy Ton and all the others – Bill originated it all.
20. MILENA CANONERO
Costume designer Edith Head gets a nod for her role in shaping Hollywood glamour, but Canonero’s inventive costuming doesn’t get a mention. Her role in crafting our vision of subversive glamour is unparalleled; Clockwork Orange, The Hunger, Barry Lyndon, Marie Antoinette – the list goes on.