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Double Vision: Celine

November 28th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

If there is one designer who knows how to get women (and men) excited it is Phoebe Philo and her continued success at Celine is a testament to her ability to tap into the pulse of what women want. For F/W Philo went in a graphic direction, with primary shades, bold color blocking and a mixes of texture, from matte leather to plush fur. One of the most editorially beloved pieces from the Celine collection was the Geometric Intarsia Sweater, a playful clash of mink and leather that succinctly merged the essence of the entire collection into a single item. If another designer were to throw together that many things on one top it might seem overwrought, or ridiculous but Phoebe Philo keeps the look minimal.

Most stylists didn’t stray too far from that ideal, pairing the sweaters with either the runway approved striped trousers, or an equally understated crisp white skirt. Most of the time what stands out are the accessories and add ons, be they gleaming silver cuffs, avant garde headgear or the label’s coveted Trapeze Bag. Take a look at the way in which several different teams interpreted the Celine look and subsequently the sleek mood of the season.

On the Runway – LOOK 10  | Image Courtesy of Celine

The Editorial Interpretation :

Kasia Struss by Steven Pan (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists) for Vogue Japan, stylist Vanessa Traina (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists)

 

Kasia Struss by Knoepfel & Indlekofer for WSJ, styled by David Vandewal

Kati Nescher by Josh Olins for Vogue China, styling Nicoletta Santoro

Karlie Kloss by Raymond Meier for American Vogue, styled by Elissa Santisi

Zuzanna Bijoch and Stella Tennant by Paolo Roversi for W Magazine, styled by Giovanna Battaglia

Olga Sherer by Marcin Tyszka for Elle France

Milagros Schmoll by Alexander Neumann for Harper’s Bazaar Turkey, styled by Sara Francia

Jenna Earle by Takahiro Ogawa in Amica, styled by Claudia Cerruti

Mina Cvetkovic by Henrique Gendre for Grazia, styled by Marine Chaumien

Diana by Anton Jhonsen for Clara Magazine, styled by Lilian Ng

Kirsi Pyrhonen by Mel Bles for Twin Magazine, styled by Celestine Cooney

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State of Grace

November 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Grace Coddington by Sebastian Kim

On the eve of the publication of Grace Coddington‘s memoirs the famously flame haired fashion editor is everywhere. Pick up a copy of i-D Magazine‘s latest issue and you’ll see her on the cover, head to any news website worth its salt and you’ll find an excerpt from the tasteful tell-all (or just check it out on Vogue.com) detailing the backstory of some epic editorial moment straight from Vogue’s pages.  Indeed it seems we’re living in a state of Grace, so to speak, so what better time to look back on the trademarks of her work – those quintessential details that set her styling apart from everyone else. It would be impossible to go through twenty years of Grace and pick a few editorials that sum up the depth and diversity that make her work great, instead we look to four Coddington calling cards that are certain to appear in every one of her stories; glamour, history, fantasy and humour.


GLAMOUR

It goes without saying that Vogue is a repository for high-glamour imagery, but Grace has always pushed the borders of what that means. It isn’t enough to showcase off the runway looks or exquisite couture, the image has to convey something powerful and iconic.

‘The Heat of the Moment’ – Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Model Naomi Campbell American Vogue, March 1998

‘High Art’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue November 2004

‘Daydreams’ Photographer Steven Klein, Models Daria Werbowy and Natalia Vodianova American Vogue September 2004

‘Talk to Her’ Photographer – Steven Meisel, Models – Joan SmallsCoco RochaKaren ElsonGuinevere Van SeenusCaroline TrentiniLiya KebedeAbbey Lee KershawDaphne Groeneveld, American Vogue 2012


HISTORY

Recreating the look and feel of historical periods with contemporary design has become something of a Vogue standard and when Grace takes on history the end result is always memorable. From haute baroque, to 50s style Brando-chic and 70s style glam rock, her interpretations of the past have always been fresh and dynamic.

‘French Twists’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Models – Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, Gisele Bundchen, Daria Werbowy, Karen Elson, American Vogue May 2004

‘A Feast for the Eyes’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Models – Kylie Bax, Amy Wesson, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Behennah, Guinevere Van Seenus, Trish Goff, Chandra North,  American Vogue December 1996

‘Custom of the Country’ photographer Annie Leibovitz, Model Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue August 2012

‘Wild At Heart’ Photographer – Peter Lindbergh, Models – Helena ChristensenCindy Crawford,  Linda EvangelistaClaudia SchifferNaomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Tatjana Patitz, and Stephanie Seymour, American Vogue 1991

Rock the House, photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue, November 2001


FANTASY

No one creates a fantastical scenario via clothes quite like Grace does. Her instantly recognizable fairy tale collaboration with Annie Leibovitz has raised the bar for just about everyone by taking the familiar childhood tales and re-imagining them as fanciful fashion moments. Who says Alice can’t fall down the rabbit hole while wearing head to toe Tom Ford? Even with the elaborate sets, mythical allusions and high concept themes, Grace makes you notice the clothes first and foremost.

‘Joy to the World’ Photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue December 2002

‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ Photographer – Steven Klein, Models – Maggie Rizer, Trish Goff, Oluchi Onweagba, Liisa Winkler, Anouck Lepere, Karolina Kurkova, American Vogue June 2001

‘Garden of Delights’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Model – Caroline Trentini, American Vogue December 2006

‘Alice in Wonderland’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Natalia Vodianova , American Vogue December 2003

‘Wizard of Oz’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Keira Knightley, American Vogue December 2005

‘Romeo and Juliet’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Coco Rocha, American Vogue December 2008


HUMOUR

A concept that is regrettably missing in most fashion editorials yet always has a place in Grace’s work. Whether it is Stella Tennant leading a troop of boyscouts or Karen Elson starring as Grace herself, there is always that added touch of whimsy that makes her work a delight.

‘A Shot of Scotch’ Photographer – Arthur Elgort, Model – Linda Evangelista, American Vogue September 1991

‘Graceful Elegance’ Photographer – Steven Meisel, Model – Karen Elson, American Vogue August 2008

‘O’ Pioneers!’ Photographer – Arthur Elgort, Model – Stella Tennant, American Vogue June 2001

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Brand Creative : The Best F/W Campaigns So Far

June 22nd, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Every top tier brand ushers out a new campaign each season, but only a select few push creative boundaries instead of just pushing product. With fall ads launching earlier than ever (remember the days of opening up September Vogue and experiencing new ads for the very first time) there are already several ads that impress us with their unique interpretation of their brand’s message. Take a look at our picks for most intriguing ads so far and be sure to share your selections in the comments!

Kenzo

The brand’s thrilling reboot continues with Jean Paul Goude breathing new life into the fall campaign imagery. Xiao Wen Ju & Simon Sabbah are connected in these cheeky reversible shots with a neon Kenzo logo flashing in the background. Goude’s image has instant visual impact and is a fun showcase for those cool Humberto Leon and Carol Lim designs.

Raf Simons
In case you had any doubt’s about Raf Simons’ ability to be subversive check out the striking new f/w ads by Pierre Debusschere starring Yannick Abrath. The impressive sculptural shots are a sight to behold, as is the corresponding campaign video that brings the imagery to life with beautifully abstract visuals.

RAF SIMONS RUN FALL RUN from 254⚡FOREST on Vimeo.

Mulberry

The fuzzy-wuzzies from Where the Wild Things Are invade Tim Walker‘s fantastical ads for Mulberry. The ads otherworldly vibe is only heightened by the addition of fashion’s favorite pixie, Lindsey Wixson and Jane How‘s sleek styling.

Prada

All the things that made the show so memorable are served up with glossy perfection in Steven Meisel‘s ultra-luxe ads. Vanessa AxenteMagdalena FrackowiakMadison HeadrickElza LuijendijkIselin Steiro and Anne Vyalitsyna sport the dip-dyed extensions and gilded accessories with panache.

Louis Vuitton

Putting that one of a kind Louis Vuitton train to good use Steven Meisel shoots a cast of it girls for the brand’s fall ads.  Elena BartelsErjona AlaFranzi MuellerHedvig PalmJulia NobisMackenzie DrazanMagda LaguingeMarie PiovesanMarina HeidenRos Georgiou shine in those signature oversized hats.

Givenchy

It is hard to beat an ad with fashion by Carine Roitfeld, images by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott and a fresh cast including Stella Tennant, Joan Smalls, Daniela Braga, Stef Van Der Laan, Rodrigo Braga, Simone Nobili and Jarrod Scott. Givenchy’s campaign is all about motion and movement, be sure to check out the behind the scenes video to see how those action shots came together.

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Striking A Chord

February 8th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

This season has been full of striking ads and the latest batch doesn’t disappoint when it comes to arresting visuals.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN
Ph. David Sims | Stylist: Camilla Nickerson

McQueen goes angelic for S/S with Zuzanna Bijoch posing in a heavenly Sims shot that calls to mind classic religious imagery.

CELINE
Ph. Juergen Teller

Juergen’s ads for Celine are instantly recognizable, but throw in the all star cast of Marie Piovesan and Stella Tennant and you have the makings of an unforgettable ad.

PRABAL GURUNG
Ph. Daniel Jackson | Stylist: Tiina Laakkonen | Hair: Didier Malige | Makeup: Hannah Murray

Is there anything Candice Swanepoel can’t do? The South African beauty pulls off dark hair and some serious yoga poses in the debut ads for Prabal’s label. Those stunning violet dresses from the show have never looked better.

EDUN
Ph. Ryan McGinley | Models: Bradley Soileau, Charlotte Free, David, Dempsey Stewart, Ehren Dorsey, and Herieth Paul

Butterflies float across the page in Ryan McGinley’s ethereal shots for Edun. The soft colors and cast of ultra-cool newcomers makes this shoot memorable.

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Weather Forecast

February 3rd, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Just in case 12 covers weren’t enough for you, take a look at four more from i-D Magazine‘s Whatever the Weather issue – the bold mix of photographic styles, models and even the occasional Spice Girl, gets us very excited for this one. For more on i-D be sure to check out i-D Online. 

Lara Mullen & Matt Ardell by Jeff Bark

Stella Tennant by Sølve Sundsbø

Lara Stone by Alasdair McLellan

Dylan Riley by Hedi Slimane

Victoria Beckham by Josh Olins

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Extremism

September 2nd, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

Take a couple of killer corsets, fashion’s premier photographer and an iconic model and what do you get? Vogue Italia‘s September issue! Stella Tennant graces the cover in an extreme look created by Karl Templer and shot by Steven Meisel. Only Stella could pull off the combo of constricting garments, multiple piercings and random planking in an editorial and make it look this good.

Scan Credit | Z Fashion Blog

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Frank Stella

June 24th, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

Josh Olins‘s minimalist photography.
Stella Tennant‘s timeless charm.
Sissy Vian‘s eclectic styling.
A simple, to the point Vogue Japan story that focuses on the season’s most stylish pieces.


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Versace Vision

June 17th, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

Versaces latest campaign offers a bold take on the brands iconography. We’ve come to associate Versace with all things overtly sexy, but Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott‘s F/W campaign shows a darker side with atmospheric shots starring Saskia de Brauw and Sean O’Pry. The powerful pictures have a larger than life and cinematic feel, with both models displaying graceful poise.

When asked in WWD about the change in image, Donatella offered this explanation: “For me, it is expected to have the blonde girl, the sexy girl, and this is what Versace meant recently, but I thought about how in the past, when Gianni used girls like Kristen McMenamy and Stella Tennant, everyone was always saying, ‘Wow, this is not a Versace girl, she is not blonde.’ Sometimes you need to renew yourself to work better and to make a little bit of a push.”

Art Direction by Giovanni Bianco | Styling by Joe McKenna

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