State of Grace

November 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Grace Coddington by Sebastian Kim

On the eve of the publication of Grace Coddington‘s memoirs the famously flame haired fashion editor is everywhere. Pick up a copy of i-D Magazine‘s latest issue and you’ll see her on the cover, head to any news website worth its salt and you’ll find an excerpt from the tasteful tell-all (or just check it out on Vogue.com) detailing the backstory of some epic editorial moment straight from Vogue’s pages.  Indeed it seems we’re living in a state of Grace, so to speak, so what better time to look back on the trademarks of her work – those quintessential details that set her styling apart from everyone else. It would be impossible to go through twenty years of Grace and pick a few editorials that sum up the depth and diversity that make her work great, instead we look to four Coddington calling cards that are certain to appear in every one of her stories; glamour, history, fantasy and humour.


GLAMOUR

It goes without saying that Vogue is a repository for high-glamour imagery, but Grace has always pushed the borders of what that means. It isn’t enough to showcase off the runway looks or exquisite couture, the image has to convey something powerful and iconic.

‘The Heat of the Moment’ – Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Model Naomi Campbell American Vogue, March 1998

‘High Art’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue November 2004

‘Daydreams’ Photographer Steven Klein, Models Daria Werbowy and Natalia Vodianova American Vogue September 2004

‘Talk to Her’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Models - Joan SmallsCoco RochaKaren ElsonGuinevere Van SeenusCaroline TrentiniLiya KebedeAbbey Lee KershawDaphne Groeneveld, American Vogue 2012


HISTORY

Recreating the look and feel of historical periods with contemporary design has become something of a Vogue standard and when Grace takes on history the end result is always memorable. From haute baroque, to 50s style Brando-chic and 70s style glam rock, her interpretations of the past have always been fresh and dynamic.

‘French Twists’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Models – Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, Gisele Bundchen, Daria Werbowy, Karen Elson, American Vogue May 2004

‘A Feast for the Eyes’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Models – Kylie Bax, Amy Wesson, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Behennah, Guinevere Van Seenus, Trish Goff, Chandra North,  American Vogue December 1996

‘Custom of the Country’ photographer Annie Leibovitz, Model Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue August 2012

‘Wild At Heart’ Photographer - Peter Lindbergh, Models – Helena ChristensenCindy Crawford,  Linda EvangelistaClaudia SchifferNaomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Tatjana Patitz, and Stephanie Seymour, American Vogue 1991

Rock the House, photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue, November 2001


FANTASY

No one creates a fantastical scenario via clothes quite like Grace does. Her instantly recognizable fairy tale collaboration with Annie Leibovitz has raised the bar for just about everyone by taking the familiar childhood tales and re-imagining them as fanciful fashion moments. Who says Alice can’t fall down the rabbit hole while wearing head to toe Tom Ford? Even with the elaborate sets, mythical allusions and high concept themes, Grace makes you notice the clothes first and foremost.

‘Joy to the World’ Photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue December 2002

‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ Photographer – Steven Klein, Models – Maggie Rizer, Trish Goff, Oluchi Onweagba, Liisa Winkler, Anouck Lepere, Karolina Kurkova, American Vogue June 2001

‘Garden of Delights’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Model - Caroline Trentini, American Vogue December 2006

‘Alice in Wonderland’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Natalia Vodianova , American Vogue December 2003

‘Wizard of Oz’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Keira Knightley, American Vogue December 2005

‘Romeo and Juliet’ Photographer - Annie Leibovitz, Model - Coco Rocha, American Vogue December 2008


HUMOUR

A concept that is regrettably missing in most fashion editorials yet always has a place in Grace’s work. Whether it is Stella Tennant leading a troop of boyscouts or Karen Elson starring as Grace herself, there is always that added touch of whimsy that makes her work a delight.

‘A Shot of Scotch’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Linda Evangelista, American Vogue September 1991

‘Graceful Elegance’ Photographer - Steven Meisel, Model - Karen Elson, American Vogue August 2008

‘O’ Pioneers!’ Photographer - Arthur Elgort, Model - Stella Tennant, American Vogue June 2001

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Posted in: General news

Balenciaga Moments

November 5th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Nicolas Ghesquiere by Steven Meisel

We were shocked and a bit saddened today to hear of Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s departure from Balenciaga. After 15 years at the legendary house, Ghesquiere is parting ways with the luxury powerhouse, a label he helped become one of the most influential and respected in the business. Though we know this is likely the start of an exciting new beginning (let the rumors begin) we can’t help but look back at a few of our absolute favorite Balenciaga moments, from the very first collection to those infamous leggings. Take a look at our favorites and let us know yours in the comments.


THE REVIVAL

In 2012 it seems like there are new designers shuffling in to breathe life into old houses every few months, that wasn’t so much the case back in 1997. At 25 after assisting designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and paying his dues behind the scenes at several brands, Ghesquière came to Balenciaga to design for the brand’s Japanese licensing partner. Hardly the most glamourous gig – but his talent was evident and soon he found himself creative director of a brand that had yet to rediscover its footing. His first show back in S/S 98 changed all that, with a darkly chic update on the brand’s identity that made the fashion press stand up and take notice. View the collection in full for yourself at Balenciaga.com.


THE BAG

Seasonal styles of the popular Balenciaga bags

It bags come and go, but modern classics are very rare indeed. Ghesquière knocked the ball out of the park when he launched Balenciaga’s Lariat bag in 2000, the oft imitated but never duplicated style has been seen on the arm of everyone from Mary-Kate Olsen to Carine Roitfeld and is still going strong.


THE GAINSBOURG CONNECTION

Nicolas Ghesquiere and Charlotte Gainsbourg by Jean Paul Goude for Harper’s Bazaar

Twilight cutie Kristen Stewart may be the latest actress to catch Ghesquière’s eye, but the original Balenciaga-fille has got to be Charlotte Gainsbourg, a woman whose idiosyncratic beauty and avant-garde career choices mirror the spirit of Ghesquière’s boundary breaking aesthetic. Serving as both muse and face of the line’s signature fragrances, Gainsbourg is a fixture in the Balenciaga front row and in the brand’s iconography.


THE FLOWERS

Jennifer Connolly for Balenciaga S/S 08 by David Sims

It is hard to go back through Ghesquière’s 15 years at Balenciaga and pick the most memorable collections, each collection has its own merits but there are a few that take on special significance. S/S 2008′s floral explosion remains one of the most daring and influential, just when we thought we knew what to expect we got hit with a strong dose of flower power. Reactions to the collection may have been divisive, but it jumpstarted the current craze for bold, head-to-toe print and has been replicated by everyone from H&M to Celine.


THE ARCHIVES


Cristobal Balenciaga Cape, 1963 – Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere F/W 2006 cape on Coco Rocha

Every designer working at a storied house has access to a wealth of archival inspiration, but only a select few put it to good use. Ghesquière was always adept at taking Cristobal’s shapes and points of reference, then modernizing them, either with subtle changes or grand re imaginings. Take a look at how Cristóbal’s 1963 cape compared to the oversized brocade cape from the F/W 06 show.


MOD MOMENTUM

Freja Beha Erichsen for Balenciaga F/W 05 by David Sims

Sixties style mod looks often found a place on Ghesquière’s runways and made for some of the most memorable looks; who can forget the mod touches in the F/W 05 and F/W 06 collections?


MARIE AMELIE

Marie Amelie’s interpretation of Balenciaga in Strict Elegance from Interview – Ph. Craig McDean

As much as we love Nicolas’ work, all the credit for Balenciaga’s longstanding cultural impact can’t rest solely on his shoulders. As the brand’s stylist, muse and loyal supporter, Marie-Amélie Sauvé has shaped the Balenciaga look for years on the runway and in numerous editorials. Some of our favorite Balenciaga moments occurred while looking at her artful and creative interpretations of that look in the pages of magazines like Interview and Vogue Paris.


i-ROBOT

Kate Moss by Sølve Sundsbø for Numero Tokyo‘s inaugural issue.

Perhaps the singularly most infamous pair of leggings in history and certainly one of the most iconic Balenciaga pieces of all time. How many leggings find their way onto the bodies of Terence Koh, Kate Moss and Beyoncé Knowles? Not to mention the omnipresent place these leggings held in fashion edits for nearly a year. We love it when Balenciaga goes on a sci-fi streak!


THE GIRLS 

Balenciaga S/S 2002 by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Every season we’ve looked forward to see which beauties would be featured in the Balenciaga campaign and to date we’ve yet to be disappointed. Whether it is a bonafide supermodel like Gisele Bundchen, or Christy Turlington or a fresh crop of brand new faces, Balenciaga always goes for the unexpected and remains one of the few brands whose campaigns can really launch a compelling face.


THE COPYCATS

The one thing we’ll miss most about Ghesquire at Balenciaga is his ability to kickstart a design trend. There are whole websites devoted to looks cribbed from Balenciaga and while all designers get inspired by each other every now and then it was always amusing to see who was drawing inspiration from Ghesquire.


THE EDITORIALS

There were and are so many great editorial images that involved Balenciaga, but we’ll end on this great shot of Gemma Ward by Nick Knight for Pop Magazine.

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Posted in: General news

A Brief History of Actors & Models

May 11th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

It is a proven fact that Hollywood actors cannot resist models – Leonardo Dicaprio we’re looking at you – so it is no surprise that magazines frequently pair actors & models together in covers and in editorials. We’re not sure why magazines always go for the actor + models combo instead of say actresses and male models (c’mon someone get Scarlett Johansson and Sean O’Pry  together already) but it is a proven formula that can produce beautiful results.

Or incredibly awkward and somewhat confusing results. Lets take a look back at some of our favorite model meets actor moments – the good, the bad and the just plain weird.

2012: W Magazine  : Tom Cruise + Abbey Lee Kershaw & Edita Vilkeviciute by Mario Sorrenti

W Magazine knows how to push all the right buttons don’t they? What better way to promote the blissfully cheesy 80s jukebox musical Rock of Ages than to put its star on the cover looking like a latter day Bret Michaels? Edita Vilkeviciute and Abbey Lee Kershaw are bringing the heat, but we can’t help but feel that Cruise looks more than a little uncomfortable. Perhaps this is simply his version of bored rock star blasé, but he manages to make standing between two of the world’s most beautiful girls look like a chore; to be honest he had more chemistry with Jeremy Renner in MI:4.

2012: Vogue Espana Clive Owen & Toni Garrn by Alexi Lubomirski

Love Toni, Love Clive. Love the city of Paris. Still he looks like her dad in this. Sorry. Unless they were going for the whole “cool dad takes his glamazon daughter to France thing”, if so then it totally works.

2012: American Vogue - Michael Fassbender and Natalia Vodianova by Craig McDean

Let’s be honest they make the ultimate austere couple.

2012: American Vogue - Eddie Redmayne & Karlie Kloss by Mario Testino

Young love minus the pimples.

2011: American Vogue – Jeremy Irvine & Arizona Muse by David Sims

Ok ok. This is a blatant promo for the film War Horse, but hey it made for an amazing editorial, atmospheric, rich and a showcase for some spectacular fashion.

2010 American Vogue - Ewan McGregor & Natalia Vodianova by Peter Lindbergh

Are you starting to see how much American Vogue likes this concept?

2009: American Vogue - Morgan Freeman & Lara Stone by Bruce Weber

Lara Stone and Morgan Freeman taking a walk around New Orleans, oh to have been a fly on the wall for this shoot…

2008: American Vogue - Jon Hamm & Catherine McNeil by Mario Testino

Let Don Draper show you how it’s done. McNeil and Hamm had a great rapport in all their images, in his Vogue profile he describes her as, “adorable and sweet and so much younger than me that it is terrifying.” Age concerns aside the Testino shoot struck the right balance between glamourous fashion fantasy and celebrity profile.

2006: Vanity Fair - George Clooney & Gemma Ward by Norman Jean Roy

The old Hollywood director and his brand new muse – is it too early to label an editorial a modern classic?

2006: American Vogue – Eric Bana & Gisele Bundchen by Mario Testino

Gisele gets roped into this sort of thing a lot…

2005: American Vogue - Josh Hartnett & Gemma Ward

Can you tell that this gorgeous duo started dating after this was shot?

2004: American Vogue Daria Werbowy and Jake Gyllenhaal

Going out on a limb and saying that Jake had the most fun on this shoot.

1992: Kyle Maclachlan & Linda Evangelista for Barneys

In the years prior to the François-Henri Pinault scandal, Linda dated Twin Peaks star Kyle MacLachlan and found time to appear with him in ads for Barneys and a Meisel Vogue story. Unfortunately the couple that poses together doesn’t always stay together and they broke things off in the mid-90s.

1992: Richard Gere and Cindy Crawford by Herb Ritts

Does it get better than this? The answer is no it doesn’t. It does not get any better, Orlando Bloom and Miranda Kerr are not going to give you this kind of movie star & model chicness, bask in the glory of this cover.

And none for Leo.

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Posted in: General news

mdc ♥’s : beauty to go!

September 26th, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

Gemma Ward and Lily Donaldson always travel in style | Photo by Emma Summerton for Vogue Italia, May 2008

With fashion month in full swing it feels like everyone is headed somewhere. Even if you weren’t jetting off to Milan to catch last week’s Prada show, it is still good to know what beauty essentials you ought to be toting with you – you never know when those to die for invites are going to come in the mail. As such here are a few of our beauty favorites for you international jet setters.

Clarisonic MIA - Don’t leave home without it, the best skincare brush in a pocket size that makes it perfect for trips. With only one speed (the original Clarisonic has three) it is even easier to use and works just as well when it comes to exfoliating and cleansing.

Malin & Goetz Detox Face Mask – Planning on spending late nights out at those fashion week parties? Who can resist the temptation. Think of Malin & Goetz’s mask as a detox plan for your face, the lightweight foam is packed with complex amino acids and natural almond extract to soothe the skin and provide gentle cleansing.

Bobbi Brown Tortoise Shell Eyeshadow Palettes – Every single eyeshadow you will need in a perfectly portable case. With this you can create everything from an “I just rolled out of bed looking this fabulous” neutral look to the coveted perfect smoky eye. Bobbi offers two different palettes depending on your skintone, but we found both worked fabulously. Keep in mind that this is a limited edition item, so be sure to get yours before they run out!

Chanel Perfection Lumiere Foundation – If it is good enough for the girls of Chanel couture, it is good enough for us. 10 hours worth of coverage in one tiny bottle.

Illamasqua Volume Mascara Alex Box‘s Illamasqua line is filled with unique products and one of our favorites is her volumizing mascara. One coat and you look completely done.

NUDE Skincare Hydrating Water – The instant solution to the horrific dryness you’ll find in most airplane cabins. One spritz and you’re good.

Estee Lauder Cooling Eye Illuminator – A handy little gem that we go back to again and again, because it just works. If you haven’t gotten eight hours of sleep, or just suffer from puffy eyes this solves the problem in an instant.

iPad 2 – Granted, the iPad is not necessarily a beauty must have, but there is no better way to bring all your magazines, books, movies and other sources of fashion inspiration with you on the road. Want to read the latest Vogue Italia on the plane? It is right there with a click of a button.

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Posted in: General news,mdc loves

Individual Allure

April 24th, 2009 |Posted by Janelle

Tank is a magazine that consistently surprises with it’s model selection so it was quite a pleasant thrill to see the striking face of Kangana Dutta on the latest cover. Fashion devotees may remember Kangana from the launch issue of Vogue India where she posed alongside fellow catwalkers Gemma Ward and Lakshmi Menon. For Tank the haunting beauty looks pensive in sleek creations from the likes of McQueen and Calvin Klein as photographer Tarun Khiwal shoots.

As the industry slowly but surely begins to diversify it’s refreshing to see models who truly look like no one else working right now.

Kangana by Tarun Khiwal for Tank

vogue1fn7

Vogue India Premiere Issue ph. Patrick Demarchelier.

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Posted in: General news

Ms. Summerton Speaks

November 20th, 2008 |Posted by Betty

Check out the Ones2Watch’s interview with Emma Summerton, the young Australian photographer creating some of the freshest images around today.

Gemma Ward and Lily Donaldson. Ph courtesy of Emma Summerton

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Bits and Bytes: The Ones 2 Watch

August 22nd, 2008 |Posted by Betty

The Ones2Watch has always showcased many of the top new faces but recently they’ve been even more on fire with some fantastically fresh faces on their radar. Casting directors and clients, if you’re not already dialed in go now to theO2W!

Sana
Marketa
Leah

Canada celebrates Daria! Fashion Week Daily

Peter Jensen has models do screen tests: Cute boys in Peter’s S/S 09 line

Reviewing Gemma Ward: Londonparismilannewyork reviews Gemma’s first film

Marie/Elite New York and Mode Models. Pic from the Ones2Watch

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Posted in: General news

Celebrating Mario Sorrenti

August 18th, 2008 |Posted by Betty

Along with the subscriber’s copy of the Hearst magazines came a surprising and splendid supplement commemorating Mario’s career with Hearst publications. Sean Murphy interviews Mario. For the interview and online version of the portfolio, click here.

With Angela, Kate, Coco, Gemma, Gisele, Shalom, Nadja, Milla and Natalia, it’s a veritable visual smorgasbord of supermodels.

1997: Angela Lindvall. Ph: Mario Sorrenti, image from 30 days of Fashion

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Posted in: General news