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Past Meets Present: The Mod Moment

January 23rd, 2013 Posted by Janelle comments (9)

By its very nature, fashion is in a constant state of change, but the industry has a way of rehashing the past every few seasons with collections that draw inspiration from key moments in fashion’s history.  Nostalgia was the predominant fashion mode of the aughts, and it saw  designers revisiting everything from 1920s flapper fixtures, to ’80s powerdressing and (gasp) ’90s grunge redux. We may have just entered into 2013, but when it comes to manufacturing clothing that looks awfully similar to styles that could have been worn generations earlier, designers show no signs of stopping.

Case in point, S/S 13′s mod moment, which saw a wealth of graphic prints invading the runway. Checks, stripes, and houndstooth patterns  made appearances on the runways of labels like Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Michael Kors and Dolce & Gabbana, offering a pleasant alternative to spring’s tried-and-true florals and providing a bit of deja vu. Granted, these design elements are timeless, but fans of ’60s style will recognize the cuts and patterns that make up these new designs as the hallmarks of mod innovators. Take a look at  the work of Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant, André Courrèges, and Ossie Clark,  and you can’t help but see where Marc Jacobs and co. took their lead from.

With the very same designs getting major play in the pages of this month’s magazines, editors have been showcasing these looks in a variety of ways. Most choose to play up the retro appeal inherent in these collections by creating stories reminiscent of days past: what says ’60s more than an angular Vidal Sasson bob or an oversized bouffant? Others focus in on the graphic element, shooting the pieces against white backdrops and playing up the contrast.

 

PAST

Designer Ossie Clark and one of his creations

Models in Who Are You Polly Magoo, 1966

Houndstooth Coat, Ph. Art Kane, 1966

Designs by Andre Courreges,


PRESENT

Vogue Japan | Ph. Emma Summerton | Styling Patti Wilson | Model Aymeline Valade | Makeup Dotti


American Vogue | Ph. Steven Klein | Styling Grace Coddington | Models Carolyn Murphy and Karen Elson


Harper’s Bazaar | Ph. Greg Harris | Stylist Tony Irvine | Model Marte Mei van Haaster | Hair Akki Shirakawa | Makeup Pep Gay

Marte Mei van Haaster in Louis VuittonMarc Jacobs and Michael Kors


Harper’s Bazaar Spain Ph. Txema Yeste | Styling Melania Pan | Model Ginta Lapina | Hair Olivier Lebrun (See Management) | Makeup Christopher Kam

Ginta Lapina in Louis VuittonDolce & Gabbana & Michael Kors


Vogue Japan Ph. Victor Demarchelier (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists) | Styling Sabino Pantone | Model Jessica Stam | Hair Didier Malige | Makeup Adrien Pinault (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists)

Stam inLouis Vuitton & Acne


Vogue China Ph. Daniel Jackson | Styling Nicoletta Santoro | Models Kel Markey, Agnés Nabuurs, Athena Wilson, Bo Don & Chiharu Okunugi | Hair Yannick D’Is (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists) | Makeup Yadim

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Minimal Mood

January 22nd, 2013 Posted by Janelle comment (1)

Josh Olins.
Alastair McKimm.
Suvi Koponen.
Vogue China.

Less is more in Olins’ take on the seasons’ most appealingly minimalist pieces. Styled to perfection by McKimm, the luxurious runway pieces especially sleek – even Miuccia Prada’s decadently girlish collection manages to seem stripped down in these stark images. Suvi proves the perfect muse for the current mood and with her slick hair by Esther Langham and glistening skin courtesy of Sally Branka, she embodies modern, nonchalant chic.

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Wu’s Spring Fling

January 17th, 2013 Posted by Janelle comments (11)

For his spring collection Jason Wu looked to the sex appeal and visual impact of Helmut Newton‘s photographs, so naturally when it came time to create a campaign Wu wanted visuals every bit as powerful as those Newton created. The bar was set high, but who better to handle the task than the dream team of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin handling photography, Kate Young styling, Patrick Li art directing and the one and only Stephanie Seymour striking the poses. Shot at La Grenouille and seeped in the kind of old school glamour that never loses its appeal, Wu’s campaign is as good as it gets. The designer himself even joins in on the fun, sharing space with La Seymour in an instantly iconic shot.

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Ad Network

January 16th, 2013 Posted by Janelle comments (4)

More fabulous fashion ads keep coming in, take a look at the latest.

TOM FORD

Tom Ford - Designer & Photographer | Orlando Pita - Hair Stylist | Charlotte Tilbury - Makeup Artist |Karlina Caune & Simon Van Meervenne - Models

We can always count on Tom Ford for an epitomized version of modern glamour and his latest campaign delivers with sleek shots by Ford himself of Karlina Caune and Simon Van Meervenne. Playing to his strengths the designer / photographer / director / provocateur creates simple images that focus on those decadent designs. Who needs exotic locations and complicated set ups when you have the beauty of those golden to the knee sandals and fringed shoes! Karlina and Simon look pretty damn good too, both models capture the slightly dangerous and oh so sexy vibe of Ford’s ethos.

 


ALEXANDER WANG


Alexander Wang
 - Designer | Steven Klein - Photographer | Pascal Dangin - Art Director | Malgosia Bela - Model

Given the memorable way Wang presented his S/S collection’s glow in the dark dresses, we were expecting a campaign with flashing lights, or blinding neons from Alexander Wang. Never one to go for the obvious thrill, Wang enlists Steven Klein and Pascal Dangin for an evocative campaign featuring the Malgosia Bela. The beauty of these images lies in the artistic way in which the clothing is presented: with her body painted in white and the stark backdrop, Malgosia looks more like a performance artist than a model. As the Wang label enters into its next stage of development this campaign provides a dynamic and eye-catching brand message.


KENZO

Jean Paul Goude - Photographer | Anthony Turner - Hair Stylist | Aaron de Mey - Makeup Artist | Humberto Leon & Carol Lim - Creative Directors | Jester White & Ming Xi - Models

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Kenzo’s F/W ads by Jean Paul Goude were arresting and upbeat – they even made our best of 2012 list and for S/S the saga continues with Ming Xi and Jester White picking up where things left off. We didn’t think it would be possible, but these ads are even more colorful and kooky than the first set.


AKRIS

Karim Sadli - Photographer | Anthony Turner - Hair Stylist | Hannah Murray - Makeup Artist | Alana Zimmer - Model

Karim Sadli shoots Akris’ understated S/S ads featuring Alana Zimmer. Akris has always been about luxury that whispers instead of shouts and Saldi does an excellent job of communicating that message visually. Albert Kriemler’s elegantly minimal designs look especially beautiful set against the lush green backdrop and Alana is as lovely as ever.


ROBERTO CAVALLI

Roberto Cavalli - Designer | Mario Testino  – Photographer | Marie Chaix - Fashion Editor/Stylist | Sam McKnight - Hair Stylist | Charlotte Tilbury - Makeup Artist | Jack Flanagan - Set Designer | Lorraine Griffin - Manicurist

Roberto Cavalli’s clothes are not for wallflowers, so it makes sense that the S/S campaign features three of the boldest and mostt compelling models around. Isabeli Fontana, Malgosia Bela and Sui He star in Mario Testino‘s kinetic images filled with bold prints, saturated colors and the brand’s signature in your face opulence.

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Blast from the Past: Mirabella

January 15th, 2013 Posted by Janelle comments (7)

The news is always going on about the death of print, but what happens when a familiar favorite magazine really does go away forever? Fans of 90s fashion will fondly remember Mirabella, sitting on the newsstand alongside issues of Elle, Bazaar and Vogue. From 1989 to 2000 the magazine founded by  fashion fixture and former editor -in -chief of American Vogue, Grace Mirabella offered up a no-nonsense take on fashion. Appealing to women who valued not only style, but substance the magazine was chock full of the era’s trademarks: supermodels, shoulder pads and colorful imagery filled with designs from the likes of Yohji Yamamoto, and Helmut Lang.

Even though the days of Mirabella have long since passed, time hasn’t stripped the publication of its charms. Looking back there are a great many aspects of Mirabella that still feel contemporary: Sarah Moon’s haunting photography is just as relevant today as it was nearly two decades ago (check the latest Valentino campaign if you need proof) and Christy Turlington – a perennial Mirabella fave – is still one of the industry’s great beauties. Today’s obsession with model-style seems foreshadowed by Mirabella’s sleek Glen Luchford editorial styled by none other than Kate Moss and it’s hard to think of a glossy that wouldn’t jump at the chance to publish a feature along these lines today. Styles may come and go but Ines de la Fressange still turns heads as trendsetter for the ages and Regan Cameron’s images of the legendary French muse are an enduring delight.

Amber Valletta & Michaela Bercu

Christy Turlington

Chandra North by Glen Luchford, styling by Kate Moss

Honor Fraser and Yael Reich by Sarah Moon

Christy Turlington by Fabrizio Ferri

Kristen McMenamy by William Garrett

Ines de la Fressange by Regan Cameron

Janine Giddings by Sheila Metzner

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Cover to Cover

January 14th, 2013 Posted by Janelle comments (15)

It’s cover vs. cover in this roundup of the month’s fashion hits. Let us know which covers were your favorites and which one’s didn’t quite make the cut.

ANDROGYNOUS APPEAL

Both Saskia de Brauw and Milla Jovovich have an innately stylish vibe that sets them apart from other cover stars, so seeing their faces peering out from the newsstand is always a treat. On February’s Vogue Russia Saskia provides a bit of androgynous edge to Paolo Roversi‘s moody blue imagery in a serious yet sensual cover. Milla J on the other hand is looking resplendent in Saint Laurent Paris on Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin‘s New York themed cover of the new Vogue Paris.

SASKIA ON VOGUE RUSSIA OR MILLA ON VOGUE PARIS – WHICH COVER GETS YOUR VOTE?


2 SIDES OF CONSTANCE

February brings double the Constance Jablonski for you to enjoy, with two very different Vogue covers. Vogue Germany‘s Alexi Lubomirski (New York: Management + Artists, Paris: Management + Artists) image offers a sultry vision of the Estee Lauder face, complete with dark lips and a retro chic bob worthy of a classic film siren. Patrick Demarchelier shows another side of Constance on Vogue China‘s springy cover shot, a simple portrait that is about as pretty as it gets.

SULTRY CONSTANCE OR FLOWERY CONSTANCE – EVERYBODY WINS!


BATTLE OF THE BLONDES

It is hard to find a flaw on Scarlett Johansson, but how does Elle UK‘s Rankin cover with the Avengers beauty compare to their one and only Anja Rubik? Both stars are clad in minimalist chic, both are looking phenomenal, but ultimately Anja’s cover is the more dynamic of the two. Naturally that means it is also the more difficult one to get your hands on, if you’re in London head on over to Selfridges to get this limited edition Elle cover.

SCARLETT’S ELLE COVER OR ANJA’S ELLE COVER – WHICH GETS YOUR VOTE?


THE TEASERS

LOVE Magazine
s new ‘Clean Issue’ may not have debut just yet, but they really know how to amp up the anticipation. The teaser shots of models of the moment, Cara Delevingne and Edie Campbell by Sølve Sundsbø are elegant without losing any of LOVE’s trademark cool.

CARA OR EDIE – WHICH LOVE TEASER GETS YOUR VOTE?

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First Look : Glass

January 11th, 2013 Posted by Janelle comments (3)

The newest issue of Glass Magazine focuses on joy, an upbeat theme that is well represented by the editorials within. Don’t expect pages full of models grinning ear to ear (though Nimue Smit does look elated in many of her shots) instead readers are treated to a series of elegant editorials that showcase the beauty of fashion without frippery. Readers will notice a lack of over the top set ups and outlandish concepts, but they’re sure to appreciate the timeless charm of beautiful girls, handsome boys and a wealth of the season’s best designs.

Photographer – Stockton Johnson | Stylist – Lucienne Leung-Davies | Models – Du Juan & Tian Yi | Make-Up – Ma Yu | Hair – Addy Lee & Jack Chong of Monsoon Hair | Photo Assistant – Tobias Kegler at Central Studios


Photographer – Bojana Tatarska | Styling – Nicola Kavanagh | Model – Nimue Smit | Make-Up – Yumi Endo at Marie-France Thavonekham | Hair – Tié Toyama at Calliste | Fashion Assistant – Kiiyha Gray


Photographer – Billy Nava | Styling – Nicola Kavanagh | Model – Melissa Stasiuk | Make-Up – Morgane Martini at Artlist Paris | Hair – Tié Toyama at Calliste | Fashion Assistant – Kiiyha Gray


Photographers – Chad Pickard & Paul Mclean | Menswear Editor – David Nolan | Model – Charlie Timms | Hair & Grooming – Tim Pateman for Phamous for Joe and Co Soho


Photographer – Jason Hetherington | Menswear Editor – David Nolan | Models – Michael Brisby & Sebastian Brice | Hair & Grooming – Richard Scorer at Premier

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Campaign Brief

January 10th, 2013 Posted by Janelle comments (15)

Stunning S/S campaigns keep coming in, take a look at some of the best ads to hit magazines of late.


BALENCIAGA

Nicolas Ghesquiere (Designer) | Steven Meisel (Photographer) |  Kirstin LiljegrenKremi Otashliyska & Sam Rollinson (Models)

The final Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga collection is given the royal treatment in Steven Meisel‘s elegant new campaign for the luxe brand. Kirstin LiljegrenKremi Otashliyska and Sam Rollinson star in the simple black and white images, which focus on the power of the clothing rather than elaborate set ups or outlandish imagery.


FENDI

Karl Lagerfeld ( Designer & Photographer) | Saskia de Brauw & Kati Nescher (Models)

Karl Lagerfeld shoots the dream team of Kati Nescher and Saskia de Brauw in Fendi’s colorful ads. With accessories serving as a focal point alongside the the vibrant geometric patterns of the S/S collection, Lagerfeld’s shots are a less is more take on Fendi’s opulent glamour.


CHLOE

Clare Waight-Keller (Designer) | Glen Luchford (Photographer) | Camille Bidault Waddington (Fashion Editor/Stylist) | Garren (Hair Stylist) | Aaron de Mey (Makeup Artist) | Anatole Rainey (Manicurist) | Fabien Baron (Art Director) | Michelle Lee for KCD (Casting Director) | Caroline Brasch NielsenNadja BenderRosie Tapner & Tilda Lindstam (Models)

 The ultimate cool girls gathering, Caroline Brasch NielsenNadja BenderRosie Tapner and Tilda Lindstam hanging out in head to toe Chloe looking like extras from an especially chic episode of Girls.


GUCCI

Frida Gianinni (Designer) | Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (Photographers) | Karmen Pedaru & Anja Rubik (Models)

Karmen, Anja, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott - when you have all that, nothing more is needed.


JIL SANDER
Jil Sander (Designer) | David Sims (Photographer) | Juliane Grüner and Otto Lotz (Models)

Jil is back! With Sander back at the helm of her eponymous line, it is only natural that the S/S 13 campaign would have a completely different look and feel from what we’ve seen from the brand of late. David Sims shoots futuristic ad images that are completely in line with the streamlined Sander vibe, while Juliane Grüner and Otto Lotz perfectly embody the effortless chic of Sander’s aesthetic.


DIOR

Raf Simons (Designer) | Willy Vanderperre (Photographer) | Olivier Rizzo (Fashion Editor/Stylist) | Anthony Turner (Hair Stylist) | Aaron de Mey (Makeup Artist) | Piers Hanmer (Set Designer) | Anna Martynova, Daiane Conterato, Marie Piovesan, Nicole Pollard, Daria Strokous (Models)

We expect nothing less than the pinacle of elegance from fashion’s most storied house and Willy Vanderperre (Paris: Management + Artists, New York: Management + Artists) delivers with a series of campaign images that effortlessly capture Raf Simons’ minimalist vision for Dior. The new look (pun intended) of the campaign feels refreshing and completely in line with the collection.

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