DNA Models
Baptiste Giabiconi
Ph: Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel S/S 09
DNA Models
Models in top rankings:
PRO: In the grand old days of the modeling industry, legendary model-masters used to elegantly but unabashedly set the booking terms to the clients as to the market value of their models. The tradition lives on at DNA, the single most consistent and selective NY boutique operation of the last five years. By obsessively nursing their high-end relationships with Conde Nast and a small circle of the industry's most powerful photographers, DNA is every inch as elite and successful as they want to be. This is great news for those lucky new models like Ali Michael that they take on. A new model scouted by DNA might want to feel privileged at being selected because the track records of Natalia Vodianova, Doutzen Krous and Karolina Kurkova are inspirational indicators of where excellent management can take a girl. The lifetime dream of the Bonnouvriers to host the chicest agency in NY has indeed come true in all its manifestations. Legendary supermodels + impeccable management of established girls + a steady upflow of blue chip new faces = stability and security, which is a coveted thing for a boutique to gain.
CON: Thinking multi-media, movies, music? DNA is probably not the best place to pursue that agenda. DNA is a high fashion ship and sails defiantly in that one direction, whatever the industry trends to the contrary. High fashion isn't what it used to be (maybe that's why it's high fashion) and the massive incursion of celebrities onto the fragrance and cosmetic contract market means it's the Karolina's, Natalia's and Doutzen's that are DNA's bread and butter revenue babes.
SCOUTING CALL: The red hot results speak for themselves. DNA can clearly market a new model to the best of the best. If you see yourself as being an ultra exclusive Vogue girl, a Calvin Klein face or a couture catwalker then this is the NY destination for you.
Wilhelmina New York
Models in top rankings:
PRO: Wilhemina's President Sean Patterson has worked tirelessly to cultivate long term relationships with power clients and is innovative in the way he cross-promotes his brand. Those ventures can range from the mass market proposition of a hot popular reality show (The Agency) or a high taste point endeavor (like the V Magazine /Calvin Klein, Armani Exchange poster pullouts). The Wilhelmina name is synonymous with top of the line "men"; not boys, not fads, not passing fancies. That has made Wilhelmina into a giant: strong, stable and incredibly good at negotiating major rates for their superstar models. This is the home of the Mark Vanderloos and the Gabriel Aubrys; where the careers run long and client loyalty is paramount. The tightly edited board of 60 models may feel boutique scale but the mentality here is all about maximum dividend on the investment.
CON: Once you sign with Wilhelmina, do not presume than you can agency hop to your heart's content. This company is very, very protective of its assets and is very strict about its commitments.
SCOUTING CALL: If you ache for major male model stardom, this is the place to join your peers. They might not bring in a lot of new faces per season, but when they do bring a player on that highly selective board, it's full steam ahead.
VNY Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: What a magnificent moment VNY Model Management is having, right this minute, crashing into the power boutique crowd via major bookings for the Prada and Calvin Klein campaigns. And it is well earned as this agency has earned a reputation for being nurturing of their models. It's a quality that has endeared VNY to the mother agencies at maximum trust level and now the dividends are paying off in the form of a board that is a client must book. The agency driving force, Lana Winters now finds herself in daily dialogue with some of fashion's biggest and best forces. See what tenacity can do for a career.
CON: VNY fought with a passion to get here, now it will have to fight with greater passion to stay there and to prove that a new power-player has arrived. And that means if VNY scouts you, then they'll be battling like it's life and death to make you a star.
SCOUTING CALL: Passion, dedication and drive. It's all here in spades. If contacted by VNY, rest assured that they'll be burning the midnight oil on your behalf.
Ford Models
Lars Burmeister
Photo: Peter Lindbergh for Acqua di Gio
Ford Models
Models in top rankings:
PRO: Range. It is not the easiest thing to provide in male modeling and most agencies resolve the conflict on focusing on only one aspect of the business. For most, it's either/or. Edgy or commercial. Mass market or boutique. What distinguishes Ford is that ability to service the complete spectrum of clients with complete discipline and passion and that ability is what makes them such a a joy for clients to work with. Whether in dialogue with the lucrative commercial clients or the edgy editorial crew, Ford has options aplenty. With top models like Brad Kroenig and Evandro continuing to shoot everything from Chanel to Arena Homme Plus to Giorgio Armani, Ford is truly laying down a blueprint for how a smart agency operates.
CON: As is typical of any agency this scale, the board tends to be large so be prepared to work hard to stand out. That said, the entire industry is keeping a keen eye on Ford right this minute, which means you'll be well placed.
SCOUTING CALL: If offered a chance to be a part of this board, run don't walk. This is a spectacular moment at Ford.
Major Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: By focusing on an always coveted look: the ideal of the very classic American good looks (like the damn well iconic Chad White), Major has exploded on the market. This shrewd throwback to the aesthetic of 80's "Greek Gods" and matinee idols has proven to be very lucrative indeed. Clients have expressed a degree of comfort with the very sellable beauty that men's division head Jason Kanner markets with perfect skill. Mr. Kanner also registered very high marks for his efficiency and professionalism in managing his client relationships. Interestingly also, is the fact that in a market that is not extremely welcoming to ethnic diversity, Major has managed to maneuver an impressive number of talent into the mainstream of money jobs. Most enticing of all, the majority of the Major models are NY based, a boon situation for clients in that city. If scouted by Major, rest assured this company is poised for a major future.
CON: Major can be edgy at the drop of the hat but it's not their reason for being. If cool is your motive, Major will clearly be able to accommodate that, but if the big bucks is what you dream of, that you'll find a lucrative home here.
SCOUTING CALL: By banking on almost fifteen years of experience in the business, Agency Director Jason Kanner has brought a powerhouse sensibility to a boutique agency currently boasting a highly select board of 40 men. If you are invited to join the winner's circle, don't hesitate.
New York Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: They boast one of the most formidable teams in all of male modeling, which means here is a board that is driven, unified and as loyal to their models as their models are to them. NY Models excels at steering ground breaking faces (like Mathias and Will) to the clients most able to platform that aesthetic. This is not a booking table full of burn-outs but rather a compilation of individuals determined to keeping their models at the top of the trade (See Mathias at No 1 on MDC's Top 50). From Dutch to Burberry, Testino through to Thomas Schenk, that direct line to fashion's most adventurous lensmen is what puts NY Models heads in the distinguished category they have carved for themselves. Credited by clients as having a very unique eye, the scouting and management team at NY Models is known for promoting their models with 100% passion.
CON: One of the disadvantages of a boutique scale operation is clients might head for the bigger shops first when casting for a certain model before angling towards NY Models. Too established to be one of the "of the moment" agencies, NY Models, ironically enough, is probably what a lot of the instant mavericks would want to be. Incredibly stable.
SCOUTING CALL: The spotlights are on NY Models right this second and the energy level of the staff is as high as the expectations. If scouted by this shop, strike while the iron's hot.
Red Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: When an agency shuts down in its former incarnation and manages to keep every single one of its key faces, that is a testament to the talent and integrity of its managers. Consider the implications of that achievement when you imagine the scale of the checks waved in the faces of those male models. Red Model Management simply put, is a paragon of how talent should be treated in business that believes talent to be disposable. With a lethal combination of impeccable scouting, focused development and shrewd management, the powerhouses at Red, George Brown, John Babin and Dave Fothergill, have consistently delivered to the editorial market, exactly what the blue chip clients are looking for, right that second. In addition to being au courant and hip, Red has also stabilized into a pragmatic and business savvy operation which means the future of the men's market.
CON: It's the classic challenge issued to all mavericks. Fashion loves a new sensation but also loves to get over a new sensation just as fast. Red has clearly learned that the next level of evolution is to turn its cool guys into wealthy fixtures.
SCOUTING CALL: These guys don't even leave the booking board for lunch; that's the level of commitment involved here. The passion that Red brings to the men's game spills over not only to the models but also to the clients. If you are looking for an agency that is fresh, clear-eyed and driven then Red is your ticket to ride.
Fusion Models
Matvey Lykov
PH: Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for Gucci F/W 09
Fusion Models
Models in top rankings:
PRO: The drive and the focus at Fusion is such that in less than 3 years, one of their discoveries was highlighting a Dior campaign and Louis Vuitton was booking their new faces. As they reach the 5 year mark, Fusion continues to have the fresh energy and genuine excitement that they bring to the business, anchored by their strong editorial eye in scouting.
CON: It's that smaller agency syndrome. Fusion is going to have to work harder to build those client relationships so that they leap quickly to mind when castings arise. They've been off to a great start, so this goal is truly within reach.
SCOUTING CALL: The ability to see the model's potential before the model manifests himself on camera is a gift. Fusion has this without doubt.
Request Model Management NY
Models in top rankings:
PRO: It's almost legendary now, the speed with which Request put themselves on the map. Request exploded on the NY scene landing some of the hottest models of the moment on their board.Their cool and unique crew of models (like newcomer Cole) is well-respected because it represents a brave departure from the cookie-cutter ideal where often times Manhattan model boards can sometimes be a series of clones. Request's management team also is known for its excellent relationships with photo-reps, in NY and especially in Paris where their dexterity with that market allows them to do a steady trade in direct bookings there.
CON: The blessing of being able to source amazing newcomers left Request vulnerable to that constant curse: the poaching that is typical of an overcrowded market. While Request has displayed a proven ability to build the boy, the challenge is to keep him locked in place. Once the money bookings start to balance the cool editorial profile however, look for those Request models to realize that loyalty can sometimes make for the best kind of stability.
SCOUTING CALL: If you want an outpost that is hip and hungry, then Request is one of the best choices imaginable.
CLICK
Garrett Neff
Photo: Bruce Weber for Calvin Klein Underwear F/W08
CLICK
Models in top rankings:
PRO: If there was no Click, would the male modeling industry be what it is today? Most likely not. If male modeling has a modern cachet these days then Click is a pioneer of that ideal. As one of the venerable agencies in this industry, Click has built a base of loyal longtime clients defined by such powerbrokers as Bruce Weber and Ralph Lauren. But now the in crowd is starting to cluster around this board and the booking board finds itself fielding calls from V Magazine and L'Uomo Vogue. If it's one thing Click has proven, it's the ability to log lucrative fees for its formidable board proving that cool is not a language exclusive to the new kids on the block.
CON: Now that Click has grown up into a stable money maker it must bring a smile to Frances Grill's face to see the word "venerable" used to describe the Click agency. But reinvention is the very definition of fashion and with a massive scouting hunt underway, don't be surprised if the Click show rolls into your town very soon.
SCOUTING CALL: Click knows the clients, with an intimacy and detail that very few agencies can even begin to imagine. If they recruit you for their new Cool Brigade, rest assured they'll also be thinking of ways to make your "cool" as financially rewarding as possible.
Next Models NY
Models in top rankings:
PRO: Next remains without question, one of the wealthiest and best managed management companies in the business and in many ways the best current performer amongst the big brand agencies outside of IMG. With a very concise and focused scouting network that scans through Brazil, Australia and Poland, the past year has seen major dividends pay off for MDC Top 10 Faces, Malgosia, Anja and the sensational newcomer Catherine. Add to that the hard earned stability of Next's big money bookings and what you have here is an agency that can guarantee you your checks without slipping into the mediocrity all catalogue bookings, all the time. When it comes to client relationships and alliances, Next Management is very discreet about its leverage but all the more powerful because of it. Faith Kates is one of the toughest negotiators around and with her on your side, you will work and at an impressive day rate.
CON: It doesn't really faze the bottom line of the operation which is swimming in lucrative catalogue capital that it doesn't focus on image bookings. But there's been a constant struggle with those "high image" bookings to counterbalance the big money commercial bookings that keeps Next rolling in cash. Thankfully the consistency of the scouting net that produces at least one editorial star a year, addresses that challenge nicely amplifying that Next is indeed that ideal of a full service destination.
SCOUTING CALL: Any new model scouted by this company should grab the offer. The one-two punch delivered by the Wilkenfeld/Kates team is unmatched in the business. Next stands distinctly not as a vanity production like so many other agencies, but a business with a capital B. With an amazing scouting to management ratio there is no doubt that Next knows how to break a new face on the market.
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